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HOW TO 

BREAK, EDUCATE AND HANDLE 
THE HORSE 

FOR THE USES OF EVERY DAY LIFE. 



Complete instructions for breaking and educating colts, 
teaching horses to drive, and for use under the saddle, 
together with many instructions which have never before 
been published, and which are the result of the author's 
experience covering a period of twenty years. 



PROF. WM. MULLEN. 



CHICAGO. 
Published by the Author. 

PRICK $1.00. 



THE LIBRARY OF 
CONGRESS, 

Two Copies Received 

MAY. 8 1901 

Copyright entry 

Guy. Zm. '9+' 

CLASS Ct XXo. No. 
C«PY 8. 



SF1 



Copyrighted 1901 by William Mullen 




Professor William Mullen 



AUTHOR'S ANNOUNCEMENT. 

In preparing the subject-matter for this modest 
volume, the author has not proceeded upon 
theory, but has attempted to present in the lan- 
guage of the common, though educated people, 
practical methods for handling horses. He has 
no secret means for breaking colts, and educating 
them, but bases his work on the dictates of com- 
mon sense. 

Any man, woman, boy or girl, endowed by 
nature with a love for the horse, can learn to 
handle him, either to drive or ride. Almost 
every child can be educated, by contact with 
horses, to make them do his bidding. Every 
man in civilization has more or less love for the 
horse. If to this love is added a practical educa- 
tion in handling the horse then every person can 
be made a thorough horseman. To accomplish 
that object is the aim of the author. 

He has tried to make his meaning plain in 
every instance, but especially desires to say to 
his readers that while they must not conquer 
through fear, no horse can be successfully man- 
aged unless the person who handles him is mas- 
ter at all times. Remember this, but do not 
forget that even with a horse, kind treatment 
turns away wrath. 



HOW TO BREAK A HORSE WITH HOBBLES. 

This I find the most successful method in 
breaking Mustangs, the mountain horse of Ne- 
vada, or the wild horses that come from Texas 
or other western states that are of a sulky dis- 
position. Some of these horses are very hard to 
break by "head and tail" or other methods used, 
but this I have found most successful, never 
having failed where it has been used. 

After having well halter broke the Mustang, 
tie his head to his tail and when he stops turn- 
ing, which will be in a very few minutes, get the 
saddle on him, standing on the same side that 
his head is tied to, keeping hold of the halter in 
the hand next to the head and dropping the 
saddle over the back with the other. This sad- 
dle should have a cinch and no buckles, having 
a long strap to tie it up with, with an iron 
thimble on each side and a ring in the center of 
the girth. Now reach under and catch the cinch 
with the right hand, at the same time holding 
the cinch strap. When you have got the cinch 
you may then let go of his head with the other 
hand and fasten the saddle on. Although a 
cinch takes a little longer to put on, yet it is 
much more handy and safe, never breaking, even 
—3— 



4 HOW TO BREAK A HORSE WITH HOBBLES. 

if the horse should start to turn before you get 
it fast; one turn will hold the saddle together. 
You may let the horse go if you wish, that is, 
let it turn and not try to cinch up any more 
until the animal stops, then cinch the saddle up 
well, but not too tight. Take your strap hob- 
bles and put on the front pasterns. This is done 
by tying a piece of light rope in the thimble 
which is in one end of the hobble and throwing 
it through the two front legs (that is, if he is 
wild and will not allow the front legs touched), 
picking it up and putting the rope through the 
other end, which will bring the hobble on the 
leg. Slip it down to the proper place just above 
the hoof, then, put the other one on in the same 
way, fastening a rope in the thimble on the sad- 
dle with two half hitches or an eye may be 
spliced in the rope and put through so that it 
cannot come loose unless taken out. Put it 
down through the thimble on the hobble on the 
same side, then up and through the ring in the 
center of the girth down to the thimble in the 
other hobble, and up to the thimble on the op- 
posite side of the saddle, having the end running 
back. 

Now, if you have a closed corral you need no 
helper, but, if not, you will require a helper who 
will lead the horse on a long rope just where 
you want him; but if the ground is not very soft, 
before beginning to throw him, put on a pair of 



HOW TO BREAK A HORSE WITH HOBBLES. 5 

knee pads or boots. If he is too wild take him 
on some straw and drop him a few times until 
he will allow you to put the boots on. These 
boots should be made out of something thick 
and soft and may be covered with leather with 
straps, which should be put on very tightly, to 
fasten above the knee, and straps below the 
knee which should be left loose so as not to in- 
terfere with his action. When you drop him, do 
not hold him on his knees but allow him to 
spring right up on his feet. If he is inclined to 
sulk and you hold him on his knees he will He 
down and you can do nothing with him until 
the sulk is over; but he may be dropped on his 
knees and he will continue to fight on finding 
himself loose enough to spring to his feet. Every 
time you drop him on his knees say "whoa." 
This will teach him that this word means to 
stop. When he stops fighting, you may try him 
by taking a pole and touching him all over. If 
he endeavors to get away from it, drop him on 
his knees. If your horse is high-strung, spirited 
or nervous when you drop him on his knees, 
hold him there, but his knees must be well 
padded for he is likely to raise himself ten or 
twelve times before he stops. Then draw his 
head back to one side and hold him until he will 
lie down, but, if fighting too hard, let him up 
again, and repeat, but do not allow him to go 
too far. If possible, keep him in the same spot. 



6 HOW TO BREAK A HORSE WITH HOBBLES. 

This will give you better success than letting 
him jump far. If he lies down, pull his head 
back to the saddle and throw him on his side. 
If he tries to rise, draw his head back again; 
this will throw him over on his side. Repeat 
this until he will not try to raise his head from 
the ground, then rub his head, neck and other 
parts of his body with the hand, touching the 
hind feet and legs, drawing them up and plac- 
ing them back, always standing at his back, and 
if he tries to get up, draw his head back. He 
has learned to give up to you and at the least 
pull on the halter, will get discouraged and lie 
still. Then, take a blanket and touch him all 
over with that, drawing it through his legs, 
spreading it over him, laying it on his head and 
neck. When he will lie still and allow this to 
be done, then let him up and try him with the 
blanket, but only on the side where it has 
touched him. If he is afraid of it, lay him down 
again by dropping him on his knees and draw- 
ing his head on the same side as before; he will 
lie down in the same position. Repeat with the 
blanket again and when he shows no sign of fear, 
let him up and try him again. If he will not 
stand, repeat, only by dropping him on his 
knees. Repeat this until he will allow the blan- 
ket to touch any part of that side of him. Now 
drop him on his knees and draw his head to the 
other side. By pressing against his shoulder, he 



HOW TO BREAK A HORSE WITH HOBBLES. 7 

will go down on the opposite side. Repeat as 
before by rubbing, handling his feet and legs and 
using the blanket, letting him up and putting 
him to test, and if quiet lay him down again. 
Now, sit on him and pat him all over. If you 
wish to get him accustomed to noise, you may 
use any instrument you wish, beginning as softly 
as you can and gradually increasing until the 
noise is as loud as you desire, such as shrieks, 
whistles, drums, tin pans, fire crackers or a gun. 
Then let him up, jump on his back and rub him. 
Now he may be taught to turn and pull in the 
cart as in the former methods, but you can go 
further with him in the first lesson than with 
the horse that will sulk; also his mouth must be 
attended to, that is, the wolf teeth and sharp 
edges taken off and gums well syringed out 
every day with alum lotion; using the same bit 
and harness as in the first method when he has 
become cheerful, but he must be driven like- 
wise in any place that he will be in the habit of 
going. A blind bridle may be used after the 
fourth or fifth day. These blinds must be large 
so as not to interfere with the eye, well open in 
front so as to give him full view of everything 
in front of him and to see objects passing by on 
either side, but, with a careful driver, I would 
recommend an open bridle to be used for one 
month, when either bridle could be used with 
safety at any time that a change may be made. 



8 HOW TO BREAK A HORSE WITH HOBBLES. 

After teaching him to turn and pull and he 
has become cheerful, you may put a check on, 
but only an elastic check should be used, as 
this class of horse fights checks very much and 
learn the habit of throwing themselves down or 
rearing up and falling over, so do not be in a 
hurry to check them. See that the mouth is 
not sore when the check is put on for the first 
time. 

Being very hardy and tough range-bred 
horses may be put right to work after they have 
been taught to pull and turn. They will not shy 
at anything, such as street cars, electric cars or 
steam engines; in fact, anything which would 
cause other horses to be very much frightened 
they will take no notice of if taken on the 
streets the second or third day and put to work, 
but you must be careful not to get them sore, 
as they will become ugly and cause you more 
trouble. I usually break these in five days. The 
first day to halter. The second day teaching 
them to pull and turn and sometimes hitch 
them while in the cart to a post. The third 
day driving them on the street, hitching them 
to posts so as to teach them to stand while 
hitched, and rehearsing them in turning. The 
fourth day, hitching them to a four-wheeled 
wagon, generally a retail butcher's, milk or gro- 
cery wagon. The fifth day instructing the 
driver how to handle them, showing him that 



HOW TO BREAK A HORSE WITH HOBBLES. 9 

the horse is gentle and not to be afraid of giv- 
ing him instructions in how to pick up the feet 
or put on the harness, or how to handle the 
reins while driving, as a great many drivers soon 
break the tender mouth, and it becoming sore, 
makes the colt ugly, so it is necessary to drive 
him with a light hand and a loose rein. 

Now he may be taught to back with a cord 
on his nose, beginning this on the third day, 
finishing with the last lesson on the fifth day, 
each day after he has come from his drive. After 
this, he is well broken for street work, and if 
handled kindly will be as gentle as a native 
horse; in fact will have no habits such as shy- 
ing, etc., that the native horse has. 

A horse broken by either of these methods 
can be driven double without any trouble. You 
may hitch him up on the lead of the team or on 
the pole and he will pull, turn, back or stop 
when called to. A heavy draft horse is better 
worked by the head and tail, but, if you do wish 
to work him, you will not have to drop him 
very many times until he will stand and allow 
you to do anything you wish with him, and after 
teaching him to turn and pull the first time, he 
may be taken right out on the road and given 
half an hour or more of slow work, not asking 
him to leave a walk. In repeating his lesson the 
second day, he may be worked for two or three 



10 HOW TO BREAK A HORSE WITH HOBBLES. 

hours, and after his wolf teeth and edges of his 
grinders have been attended to he may be al- 
lowed to rest. 

If you wash his shoulders with lotions to 
harden them, you may put him right to work 
either single or double in a wagon, plow or any 
place you wish. A horse that has to do hard 
work, ought to be allowed to carry his head 
naturally, but if a check is put upon him he can- 
not do it and work as well. 



TO TEACH A HORSE TO PARK. 

This is a very tractable gait for a lady's saddle 
horse. Not very common as yet, but easily 
taught. A horse may be taught to park in two 
weeks by any lady who is a real horsewoman. 

Tap one of the legs below the knee with the 
butt end of the whip, and when he raises his foot 
pet him for it, each time taking hold of the foot 
and holding it up. First make him lift one foot 
and then the other. If you wish him to learn 
this quickly, give him a piece of sugar. After 
he has learned to raise his foot at the tap, take 
hold of it in front of him so that he will be com- 
pelled to extend his arm. By petting and en- 
couraging him, he will soon learn that you want 
him to extend his foot. Then take one leg from 
him and then the other. The next lesson will 
be in stepping forward. After tapping on his 
leg, hold it in your hand and pull on the halter 
strap so as to force him one step ahead. When 
he steps, put the foot down and pet him. Then 
pick up the other foot, make him step one step 
ahead, pet him again, and give him enough 
practice so he will do this easily. In the next 
lesson, give him two steps in succession, first 
one foot and then the other, and so increase 

n 



12 TO TEACH A HORSE TO PARK. 

until he will take nine or ten steps with your 
aid. He will soon learn to do this himself by 
just holding your hand in the act of receiving 
the foot, but not taking it. This you must 
make him do slowly, and hold his foot up as 
long as you hold your hand down in the act of 
receiving it, so that you may direct the time. 
Then compel him to raise his foot from the 
shoulder. This will give him a high step. After 
having had sufficient practice at this, he will do 
it readily from the act of holding a whip in 
front of him while walking by his side. You 
may get on his back and tap him on the leg that 
you want him to raise, and when he raises it, it 
matters not how slowly, pet him for it. Then 
drop the whip on the other side, tapping him on 
the other leg and continue until you can get 
him to raise his leg as high from the saddle as 
when you are on the ground; then you may 
urge him to take a step while the leg is up, and 
then another, and another. When he has done 
this, the work is complete and practice will 
make him perfect. 




HOW TO TEACH A HORSE TO SIDE-STEP 

Using a double-rein bridle, stand on the leit 
side of the horse, facing the same way as he. 
Reach under his head and take hold of the 
snaffle-rein ring on the right side, and grasp the 
curb rein with the left hand. Now pull apart, the 
right hand in front, and the left hand back, and 
as soon as he turns his head to the left, let go 
of him and pet him. Then go on the right side, 
turning the head to the right, in the same man- 
ner. Each time you make him turn his head 
make him take it further to each side until he 
will turn it right back to his shoulder on either 
side without moving his body. This should be 
practiced until a slight pull on either snaffle- 
rein will turn his head in opposite direction. 
Now, stand on one side, with the snaffle-rein 
over the neck on the opposite side. If standing 
on the left side, hold the snaffle-rein in the right 
hand and curb rein in the left hand. Speak to 
him in order that he will step up, and as he steps 
up pull lightly on the curb rein. This will teach 
him to carry his head on one side while walking. 
Allow him gradually to go to the right; this 
will teach him to place the left foot always over 
the right when stepping towards the right side. 
13 



14 HOW TO TEACH A HORSE TO SIDE-STEP. 

When he has taken a few steps in this position, 
stop him and pet him, giving him all the en- 
couragement you possibly can. Now, go on 
the right side, taking the left snaffle-rein over 
the neck on the right side and hold the right 
curb rein in the right hand. Urge him ahead 
and draw the head slightly to the right by a 
downward pull on the right curb rein. You 
may press up against his shoulder so that when 
he steps ahead he will step a little toward the 
left at the same time. Repeat this several times, 
caressing him each time he does as you wish. 
When he has gotten so he will carry his head 
on either side while walking in front, you may 
tap him on the hind part of either side. If 
standing on the right side and urging him to 
the left, reach behind you with your whip and 
tap him on the right quarter. When he steps 
over, pet him for it. Then go on the other side 
and when he steps that way, pet him again. 
Now you may stand in front, facing him, hold- 
ing down on the left curb rein. Chirp to him 
in order to lead him to your left and reaching 
back with your whip, tap him on the left quarter 
as in the act of stepping, he will step sideways 
instead of in front. After each lesson always 
encourage him. Repeat this on the other side 
until he will go in a straight line, or form two 
imaginary lines while going in either direction. 
You may now get in the saddle, allow him to 



HOW TO TEACH A HORSE TO SIDE-STEP. 1 5 

start ahead straight, and after taking one step, 
if you want him to step to the right, bring a 
light pull on the left curb rein so as to bring 
his head lightly toward the left, at the same 
time urging him ahead. Then, reach back with 
your whip on the left side and tap him on the 
left quarter, and when he steps to the right, ease 
on your rein, pet him and encourage him for 
this. Repeat this on the other side. You will 
find with a few lessons he will become quite 
well trained and go as easily and freely to either 
side when caited upon. 




HOW TO TEACH A HORSE TO TURN ON 
EITHER FRONT OR HIND FEET. 

After he has been trained to carry his head 
on either side, as in the foregoing chapter, 
"Teaching a horse to side-step," he may be 
taught to turn on either front or hind feet. To 
teach a horse to stand on almost the same spot 
with his front feet, stand right at his head, 
holding the left snaffle curb rein, reach back 
with your whip and tap him on left quarter. 
When he takes one step to the left with his hind 
legs, stop and pet him. Now go to the right 
side, take hold of right curb rein and touch him 
with the whip on the right quarter until he will 
take one step. After petting him for this, go 
back to the left rein and repeat this lesson until 
the horse will step either side and make a com- 
plete circle with his hind legs. Then you may 
get in the saddle and repeat this until he will 
remain in about the same spot with his front 
feet and draw an imaginary circle with his hind 
feet, either side. 

Now, press against his right quarter and urge 
him a little ahead, laying the reins over his neck 
as in the act of turning under saddle gaits, en- 
couraging him each time he steps over with his 
16 






HOW TO TEACH A HORSE TO TURN. I J 

front feet; repeat this step by step first on one 
side and then the other until you can make a 
complete circle with his front feet and hold him 
on the spot by pressing with your crop or whip 
on his quarter. If you wish to make a very 
short turn, or a quick one, draw the reins over 
the neck on the right side, give a tap with the 
whip or crop on the left side. This will give 
him a short turn to the left. Repeat this on the 
other side and it will turn him to the right. 







HOW TO TEACH A HORSE TO LIE DOWN. 

Strap up the left front foot, take a piece of 
soft rope about seven feet long, take the center 
of it and wrap three times around the bony part 
of the tail very near the end. Separate the hair 
in three parts, allowing each end of the rope to 
go with a bunch of hair and braid the hair up 
in a three-strand plait. Make a half-hitch on 
the end of the tail with each end of the rope; 
this will keep the tail from unbraiding. Then 
braid the tail up, forming a loop, and tie on the 
bony part of the tail with the ends of the rope. 
After tying, do not leave the ends long enough 
to interfere when you are working with him. 
Now, tie a ring in the loop of the tail with a 
piece of rope, attach a long soft cord to the 
halter and take it on the right side, put it 
through the ring, fasten to the tail and back- 
to the ring in the halter. Take hold of the rope 
with both hands, standing between the head and 
tail on the right side, making the horse turn 
with you, and after he has turned several times 
you may pull on the rope so as to bring his head 
and tail together. Now overcome his balance 
with a little jerk and he will go over on the left 
side. This may be repeated until he will go 

18 



HOW TO TEACH A HORSE TO LIE DOWN. IO, 

down from the mere pulling of his head back 
when his leg is tied up. You may repeat this 
with either leg being tied up but, when the right 
leg is tied up, the rope must be brought on the 
left side. You must be careful and turn him 
enough so that he will not struggle too much 
when you go to throw him over. If a very 
stubborn case, he may be turned very rapidly 
before tying his leg up, and then turned a little 
more just before throwing him. With this les- 
son in four days time a horse can be taught to 
lie down by the mere tapping on his leg, if he 
is bright and intelligent. 



* 



HOW TO TEACH A HORSE TO LIE 
DOWN WITH THE HOBBLES. 

Use a harness saddle, the kind I have de- 
scribed in " Training colts to harness with hob- 
bles." After putting the saddle on with the 
hobbles on the front pasterns, hold the rope in 
one hand, standing at his side, and tap him on 
his shin so that he will raise his feet. By pull- 
ing on the rope it will bring his two feet under 
him. His knees must be well padded, for the 
first time he comes down on them if not pro- 
tected, they will surely be broken. When he is 
on his knees tie your rope to itself in the saddle 
and if wishing to make him lie down on the 
right side, stand at the left side at his shoulder 
and draw his head back, at the same time press- 
ing over on the shoulder. This will compel him 
to go down on the right side, and if you wish 
him to go down on the left side, you will stand 
on the right side by his shoulder and pull his 
head to that side, pressing on his shoulder. Re- 
peat this until a slight pull on the rope of the 
hobbles will make him go down. This will teach 
a horse to lie down by a tap of the whip very 
quickly, but they will plunge or lunge more, and 
are more likely to hurt themselves than in the 
former method of teaching them. 
20 



HOW TO MAKE A HORSE LIE WITH 
ONE STRAP FAST. 

Girth a circingle around the horse, with a 
strap coming up from the front feet under the 
circingle with the other leg tied up. Stand on 
the side of the horse close to the shoulder on 
the same side as the strap on the foot, and press 
against the shoulder so as to compel him to 
raise the foot in order to catch his balance, and 
when he does this, take the foot from under 
him with the strap, which will bring him to his 
knees. By drawing the head around to the side 
and pressing on his shoulder you will compel 
him to lie down. 

HOW TO MAKE A HORSE LIE DOWN 
WITHOUT ANY RIGGING. 

Tie up the left front foot, take him by the head 
and tail on the right side and turn him until he 
can hardly stand from dizziness. Then draw his 
head back and press against his shoulder, he will 
lie down. When he is falling press against his 
hip so as to help him over. Repeat this a num- 
ber of times and he will soon learn when you 
press on his shoulder to go down on the knee of 
the leg which is tied up, then draw the foot of 
the other leg back, so as he will be on both 
knees, when you will draw the head back and 
press him down as in the former method. 
21 



HOW TO HOLD A HORSE DOWN 

AFTER YOU HAVE LAID HIM 

DOWN. 

To teach him this when you have a rope be- 
tween his head and tail, you simply draw his 
head right back to his shoulder and then he can- 
not get up. When he has ceased to struggle, 
let his head loose so as to be in its natural po- 
sition when lying down, standing ready with the 
rope in your hand, and at the least sign of a 
struggle draw his head back quickly, and this 
will throw him back again. He may cause you 
to repeat this very rapidly the first time he has 
been laid down, but if you do not allow him to 
get up until you have thoroughly conquered 
him, you will save a great deal of time in not 
only teaching him to lie down, but in teaching 
him to stay down. You may stand at his 
shoulders behind and draw his head back with 
the halter strap, and thus teach him to remain 
lying down, if you are quick enough. 






22 



HOW TO TEACH A HORSE TO STAND 
ON HIS HIND LEGS. 

After you have been training a horse, he may 
be taught to stand up by the tap of the whip. 
A few taps of the whip high on the front legs 
at the same time saying "Up" will confuse him, 
and not knowing what you want he will become 
impatient and give a little jump. Give him a 
piece of sugar and calm and quiet him. Repeat 
this, each time paying him for what he does. 
In the next lesson, swing your whip more in the 
air at the same time saying, "Up," and then as 
in the act of hitting him on the front part, 
causing him to jump again. When he has 
jumped, or raised with his front legs, pet him 
and reward him for it, each time getting him 
higher and higher. It will require but a few 
lessons when he will stand up straight for you. 
Now, to hold him there, simply keep irritating 
him with the whip. Do not try to keep him too 
long, but every time after letting him down 
give him a piece of sugar so that he will know 
he will be paid whenever he obeys you. He will 
soon try to please you, it matters not how 
difficult the circumstances may be. A real stub- 
born case will necessitate putting a piece of cord 
23 



24 TEACH A HORSE TO STAND ON HIS HIND LEGS. 

around his neck and through his mouth, making 
a war bridle and jerking down on it. This will 
cause him to rear for which you will pet him. 
Do not give him too much in the first lesson, 
because he may become sulky and your work 
would be fruitless, but if he raises once or twice 
without getting very angry, you have done well 
and leave him alone for that day. 

In his next lesson, you may start him with 
your cord and if he raises readily, you may take 
it from his mouth, put a bridle on him and at- 
tach the cord to the rings of the bridle, using 
this instead of the cord on the mouth. After a 
few lessons they may be increased, and when he 
will stand up straight from the cord, you may 
begin to use both cord and whip together; then 
take the cord out and practice him with the 
whip alone. 



HOW TO TEACH A HORSE TO STAND 
ON A BOX. 

Secure a strong box, about twelve inches 
high, lead the horse up to it, raise one foot on 
the box and then take hold of the other, urg- 
ing him ahead with the bridle until he has both 
feet on the box. Pet him and give him a piece 
of apple or sugar. Allow him to remain stand- 
ing on the box for some little time, and then re- 
peat. When he will get on the box readily for 
you with his front feet, allow him to step either 
side as you wish, and when he has confidence in 
himself so that he will move the hind feet with- 
out the front ones, coax him ahead on the box 
until he is about ready to step up with the 
hind legs. Then pick up a hind leg and place it 
on for him, coaxing him so that he will pick the 
other one up. Hold him on the box, pet him 
and give him something to eat. Repeat this 
until he will readily get on the box with all four 
feet. Then, make the box shorter and practice 
him, and still shorter until he will get on a very 
small box with his four feet. Then increase the 
heighth until he will get up on a high box. 
In this manner you can get him to stand on a 
box with his four feet almost together. 
25 



HOW TO TEACH A HORSE TO SAY "YES." 

This trick is very amusing and an answer can 
be obtained from a horse by simply pointing at 
his breast with a cane or whip, or even the 
finger. On speaking to the horse he will bow 
his head as though answering "yes." For in- 
stance, ask him some question as though talk- 
ing to a human being, and from all appearances 
bystanders will think he understands just what 
you say. Take a pin and prick him on the 
breast. At the slightest move of the head, pet 
him, speak kindly to him and give him a piece 
of sugar, and repeat. If you use any set sen- 
tence while you are teaching him, he will bow 
his head when he hears those particular sounds. 
Repeat this until he will raise his head very high 
and drop it, but as soon as he will bow his head 
from a tap on his breast, you may cease using 
the pin, but just simply tap him instead. 



26 



HOW TO TEACH A HORSE TO SAY 'WO." 

This trick, like the trick of saying "yes," will 
cause a great deal of amusement to a company 
gathered together, as you may draw from the 
horse the answer "no" by simply pointing to 
his shoulder. I once taught a Shetland pony 
and a crowd gathered around him while in the 
livery stable. The stable man standing there, I 
asked the pony if he had had any oats that day. 
The pony gave an extra heavy shake of the 
head. The stableman spoke sharply to him and 
unconsciously raised his hand, which was point- 
ed to his shoulder, saying: "you lie." This made 
the pony shake his head "no" again. Since then 
the stableman thinks the pony understands a 
great deal of what is said to him. 

To teach this trick take a pin and prick the 
horse on the leg, high up and well back, close to 
the wethers, and on the least sign of a shake 
of the head, pet him and give him a piece of 
sugar and repeat. This trick can be taught in 
fifteen minutes to any horse, so that the shake 
will be recognized by any person. A horse that 
is sensitive to the touch will shake his head as 
soon as he is pricked, so that you may speak to 
any horse and by concealing the pin you may 
deceive a company or group that has gathered. 
27 



HOW TO TEACH A HORSE TO FOL- 
LOW WITHOUT HALTER OR BRIDLE. 

Put the horse in a large stall or ring about 
twenty feet in diameter and take a lash whip, 
Crack the whip so as to make him run around 
you while you remain in the center of the ring. 
After he has run sometime and you see he is 
slacking in his speed stop him by holding the 
whip out in front, at the same time saying 
"Whoa." Then start him to run around the 
other way by cracking the whip until you see 
him slacken in his speed, then raise the whip 
again in front of him, saying "Whoa." If he 
stops and looks at you, walk up to him, pet him 
and remain petting him until he becomes calmer, 
for you may have given him a little fright in 
cracking the whip. When he has become calm, 
start him running around in the opposite direc- 
tion, but not so long this time before stopping 
him, and after petting him, start him around the 
other way. If you do not wish to use sugar, 
carrots, apples or anything that a horse will eat 
may be given him, but, under no consideration 
must a horse be hit with a whip while you are 
teaching him. When he will start around for 
you and stop readily when spoken to, you will 
28 



HOW TO TEACH A HORSE TO FOLLOW. 20, 

then place the whip over his back, allowing the 
lash to drop over his rump, step back a step 
saying, "come here," and pulling lightly on your 
whip. When he steps up to you, pet him. Re- 
peating this he will soon learn to follow you any 
place, and at the same time, you have taught 
him to go away from you as well as to come 
to you. In time he will distinguish the differ- 
ence between the words "go away" and "come 
here." A horse that is taught by this method 
and rewarded every time he is called, may be 
caught in the largest field or pasture that he 
may be turned loose in. 




HOW TO HALTER-BREAK COLTS. 

The driving of colts from the field or range into 
the corral or paddock, do with as little noise as 
possible. Being customary on ranches to shout 
and yell on the rodiers or drives, it may take a 
little trouble to break the men from this, but in 
order to have good results in catching a colt it 
must be done. Allow no ropes to be swung or 
whips to be cracked while the separating of colts 
or horses is being done, but in the parting from 
one paddock to another, do it quietly and slowly, 
walking in between the horses, and separating 
the ones desired. Always have a sufficient num- 
ber of gentle horses, so you may hold them easily 
in any part of the corral. Now have a small 
paddock, and in one corner have a pen built 8 feet 
high, about 14 feet square, or 10 x 14 at the small- 
est; not larger than 14 x 20, but if so long, it is 
better not to have it wider than 10 or 11 feet. 
Roof it over, but it can be made to do without a 
roof. I have found better results from one that 
is roofed over. Separate two or three gentle 
horses with the colt or colts you are desirous of 
haltering. Ten colts may be haltered in one half 
day. This is about as many as one good man 
may attend to, even when having the proper 
places to hitch. Now, drive the gentle horse and 

30 



HOW TO HALTER-BREAK COLTS 31 

one colt in the pen, which we will call the halter- 
ing pen. Go immediately inside, and separate 
all of the gentle horses but one, which you will 
leave in the haltering pen with the colt. Close 
the door, which will shut outthe view of anything 
that would tend to draw the colt's attention. 
Now, the colt will invariably go on the side of 
the horse opposite from you, between the horse 
and the wall. Being afraid of you, he will seek 
protection, and thus use the gentle horse as a 
shield. Now, you must guard against causing 
him any fear, and thus work only on the outside 
of the gentle horse. You must have a docile 
horse that is not afraid of you, but one that you 
can climb all over if necessary, and that will come 
at your beck and call. One used for this several 
times, and being petted and fed when he does 
just what you want, will soon learn to help you. 
When the colt is standing quietly with the horse, 
you will go up to the horse, soothe and pet him. 
Gradually let your hand reach the colt, all the 
time stroking the neck of the horse. After hav- 
ing touched the colt's neck, and he will allow you 
to stroke and pet him, using the left hand for this, 
you will use the right hand to reach the colt over 
the neck of the horse. When he allows you to 
stroke his neck or nose, you will then take your 
halter, which you will have prepared with a snap 
and ring, instead of a strap and buckle. 

Take the halter in the left hand, reaching 
under the horse's neck, and under the colt's neck. 



32 HOW TO HALTER-BREAK COLTS 

When standing on the left side of the horse at 
his head, then reach over their necks with the 
right hand, taking the strap of the halter with 
snap to slip over the colt's nose, and snap into 
the ring quickly. This must be done instantly, 
and at the first trial; but if you should make a 
failure at the first attempt, when the colt leaves 
the horse, backing out from the side of him or 
otherwise, wait one or two minutes; then bring 
the colt back into position by the side of the 
horse by quietly walking behind him, not using 
anything that will excite him or cause him pain. 
Even if the colt should leave five or six times, 
bring him back quietly and gently. He will soon 
not be afraid of your touch, and will allow you to 
slip the halter on without becoming excited. 
Now, having the halter on, go to his tail, keeping 
on the side of the horse, so if the colt kicks, he 
will not reach you. Keep the horse close up to 
the wall which he is facing, that the colt may 
not have any encouragement to leave his place. 
Then touch his tail gently and gradually, stroke 
and lift his tail up, separating it in three parts 
for braiding, and take a piece of soft rope about 
seven feet long, taking the centre, wrap three 
times around the bone of the tail near the end, 
and braid it into the tail; tying both ends on the 
tail with the rope forming a loop. 

Now take a soft rope, which we will call rig- 
ging No. i. Carry the end over the horse's and 
colt's neck, and fasten in the ring of the halter; 



HOW TO HALTER-BREAK COLTS 33 

put the other end into a rope over the back, 
which we will call No. 2; then the other end 
of No. 2 into a rope around the rump, which we 
will call No. 3. Take through the slack of No. 
1, dropping the end that is not fast to the halter 
in front of the colt, still holding up Nos. 2 and 3 
from the back of the colt. Reach in front of the 
colt with No. 1, then pick up the end of No. 1 
and urge the colt over it. This brings No. 1 
under the belly of the colt. Now lay the end of 
No. 1 over the back of the horse, walk back and 
put No. 3 through the loop in the colt's tail, put- 
ting No. 2 through the eye of No. 3, and then 
No. 1 through the eye of No. 2, and bring No. 1 
to the ring of the halter. Unfasten the end of 
No. 1 and bring the two ends of No. 1 from 
opposite sides, putting the two ends through the 
ring of the halter; then tie a soft rope over the 
colt's withers to No. 1. Then take the colt out 
of the box-stall or corral, in front of a high fence, 
where he can be tied. No horses or other colts 
should be left near him now. Do not tie him 
to a hitching post or tree, nor in a small stall, 
for if he throws himself he will get scared, but to 
a high, smooth, strong fence, with a ring or 
something to tie a rope to — about five feet from 
the ground is the best. He may buck, jump, or 
throw himself, but if he is in a good place, with 
soft ground and a high fence in front of him, he 
can not injure himself, nor yet get tangled in his 
own rigging. 



34 HOW TO HALTER-BREAK COLTS 

This method is better than any other, saving 
all cruelty and pain, being done quickly, safely 
and with less irritation than by any other method. 
Leave him tied until he is quiet and stands with 
a loose halter rein, then unhitch him from the 
place where he is tied, and give him a lesson in 
following you. This he will learn quickly, if you 
do not fight him, i. e., make him angry. By 
standing in front of him and pulling on the rig- 
ging gently he will take a step forward, when you 
will approach him slowly, and pet him. Repeat 
this until he will follow you readily around the 
paddock. Now tie him up, feed and water him, 
leaving the rigging on until the next day, when 
you will give him another lesson in following. 
You will find that he answers very quickly. Now 
the rigging may be taken off, and a rope attached 
to the halter will be sufficient, and if not ready 
to bring him under complete subjection, you may 
leave him until your own convenience. When 
having to water him out of a bucket, approach 
him with the water slowly and quietly, having 
your bucket well filled, so he may drink readily 
from the water without putting his nose too far 
into the bucket, as this is something new and 
strange, and he will probably be afraid, but 
if he does not drink you may tie him up again 
and .leave him a few hours, before offering him 
any more, as very many horses on the range and 
ranches running wild do not drink before 1 1 
o'clock in the day, and some not more than 



HOW TO HALTER-BREAK COLTS 35 

once a day. Do not do anything that will cause 
him fear and teach him to kick or strike. By 
halter breaking him in this way, it will prove 
beneficial in his next lesson. For draft horses 
or horses that are not likely to buck or kick much 
the same methods as above may be used except 
that instead of using rigging No. I, the training 
may begin by using rigging No. 2. This rigging 
goes from the ring of the halter around the body 
to the ring in the halter on the other side, be- 
ing one rope with two soft pieces of rope over the 
back to each side and fastened to the rope, one 
just in front of the croup and the other just on 
the withers. This rigging should not be too loose 
on the horse, for when he stands up and quits 
pulling if it is so, it will hang down, and there is 
danger of his stepping over it. Having a loop 
spliced in each end, and putting it through the 
ring in the halter from the opposite sides, it will 
form a cross, and the two ends being tied with 
the hitching rope will prevent the rigging from 
becoming larger or looser on the colt. This also 
must be done with the rigging No. 1. Although 
this rigging is very simple, and is easily put on, 
being done very quickly, yet I do not recom- 
mend it for high strung horses or mustangs or 
animals that will buck, for in bucking it is liable 
to slip up under his tail, and make it sore, or 
even slip up over his back and pull down on his 
neck, but in draft horses, colts or horses partially 
broken, this rigging will do. In teaching them 



36 HOW TO HALTER-BREAK COLTS 

to follow you will have to pull harder, but other- 
wise doing the same way as with rigging No. I. 
If desirous of putting him into a stall, the rigging 
may be taken off, and tied up with a rope in the 
halter, leaving him with a rope behind him from 
each side of the stall, so when he backs up 
against it, he will step up in his place. When 
giving him his second lesson a piece of sash cord 
may be used with a large loop; this dropped over 
his hind parts can be used the same as rigging 
No. 2. This I use in teaching yearlings to fol- 
low, having a halter with a strap on and drop- 
ping the cord over the rump, holding them 
straight by the head, and pulling on the cord; 
the same time saying the words, " Come here." 
This may be taught in the two above methods. 

I do not recommend any war bridles to be used, 
but I will give them here, in order that the reader 
may know them when he hears of them. The 
reason that I do not approve of teaching colts to 
follow by the use of war bridles and whip is they 
break a colt's mouth, which takes several months 
at times to heal, again interfering with the bitting 
and after training of the colt. If a colt has his 
mouth broken, i. c, the corners of the mouth, it 
may become so tender that he cannot bear the 
touch of the bit, and healing quickly may become 
tough and calloused, and teach him to pull or lug. 
Take a soft rope about the size of a sash cord 
or a little larger, making a loop in one end large 
enough to get over the horse's lower.jjaw, the 



HOW TO HALTER-BREAK COLTS yj 

other end being put through this loop making a 
head stall. Put over the horse's head right be- 
hind the ears and the loop over his lower jaw hav- 
ing the end to work from on the left side. 

Some of our leading horse tamers and trainers 
use this by standing on one side, giving a strong 
jerk, raising the horse from his feet by the pain 
which is caused from the rope, pulling the rope, at 
the same time using the words, " Come here," 
then coming on the other side and continuing 
until he will follow. Very often I have seen this 
result in teaching colts to rear or strike, and some- 
times they become very vicious. But this must be 
done by standing on one side and pulling lightly 
until the colt turns his head to one side, when 
you will encourage him, and repeat it on the 
other side. Then coming back to the first side, 
pull again gently until he will take one step. It 
matters not how small a step it is, just so he 
moves a foot, when you will stop again and 
encourage him. Do the same on the other side; 
continue this until he will follow you. If he 
should try to pull away from you, hold him 
steady, but as soon as he stops pulling ease 
on the rope. This in no case will be necessary 
to use on any colt that has been broken by 
my former two methods. 

I will relate an instance here of a stock raiser 
in Missouri who hired me to go on his farm 
to break some colts. He told me that some were 
halter broke, but some of them were not. I after- 



38 HOW TO HALTER-BREAK COLTS 

wards learned the reason why they were not all 
halter broke. They could not catch them to put a 
halter on, and his men not being experts, could 
not throw a rope, so the colts ran longer without 
being caught. On arriving at the farm, I imme- 
diately began work haltering several of the colts. 
I found the corners of their mouths were very 
badly broken, and the colts very poorly halter 
broke. One well bred colt had a hole in one 
side of his mouth, it being so sore that I refused 
to do anything more than to halter break and 
tame him, leaving instructions that a bridle 
should not be put on until his mouth was 
thoroughly healed. Inquiring from him how this 
was done, he told me that a horse doctor travel- 
ing through that country showed him how 
to halter-break his colts, this being the result 
from his war bridle. Another method of war 
bridle breaking is to tie a rope around the 
colt's neck, then bring it down through his 
mouth, put the end through the rope around his 
neck, and drawing tightly, using a long whip 
to cut the colt from behind, and when the 
colt runs from the whip, he is taken with a sharp 
jerk on the mouth by the war bridle, this being 
repeated until the colt will step up to the crack 
of the whip, with a broken mouth and in many 
cases a broken heart. 

In books sold throughout the country, I find a 
great many men are practising anothor method 
with less common sense, and just as cruel as the 



HOW TO HALTER-BREAK COLTS 39 

war bridle. First, by taking a rope with a loop 
in one end around the body of the horse, the 
other end being first in the loop drawn rather 
tightly over the flanks, bringing the rope between 
the legs and through the rigging of the halter, 
and tied to a hitching post or some other place. 
Now, the colt being tied thus, will kick and 
plunge, pulling back and falling down, carrying 
the whole weight of his front parts on the rope, 
they will sway from side to side falling with it, 
with the blindness of not caring how they strike, 
very often bruising their eyes from striking them 
on the ground. Very often they will rear and 
and strike, trying to get the rope from between 
their legs. After being exhausted from pulling 
back, they will stand close; being lacerated be- 
tween the legs they quickly learn to stand with a 
slack rope, so it will not touch tender places, but 
this takes two or three weeks to heal. Very 
often you have to spend a great deal of time in 
healing between the legs, to say nothing of the 
injuries caused to the head from throwing them- 
selves on the ground, or battering themselves 
against something that is close, such as the par- 
titions in the stables where they are taken into as 
soon as the rope is put on. This causes a great 
many colts to lose an eye, and often so strains 
the back as to make them weak for life. 

Some trainers use a whip. Getting a colt into 
a ring thirty or forty feet in diameter, they imme- 
diately apply the whip to their heels, running the 



40 HOW TO HALTER-BREAK COLTS 

colt a number of times around, when they will stop 
him and make him go the other way; then they 
will try to draw his attention by snapping the 
whip, and approaching him, if he runs away, they 
will whip him on the heels and try it over again. 
Every time the horse runs by them they will use 
the whip on him. I have seen a man spend a 
whole half day on a high bred horse, whipping 
him in this way, until no one dare go very close 
to him, for he had learned to fight with his front 
feet as well as his hind; but this is not gener- 
ally the result from such training, as a horse 
learning that he gets cut on the hind part will 
face the trainer, but very often not until his spirit 
is broken, when the trainer will approach him, 
holding a halter open in both hands, slipping it 
over the colt's nose and snapping it. Then they 
put him in hind hobbles and tie him to a post or 
other place. If he pulls back the hobbles throw 
him, as the rope comes from the hind legs up to the 
ring in the halter, so he soon learns to stand with- 
out pulling back. The next day he is put in the 
ring again and has another lesson with the whip, 
a little in advance of the one of the day before, 
teaching him to follow all around. Although this 
teaches the horse to follow, it does not fully halter 
break him, for very often he learns to break away 
when one is leading him with a rope. I do not 
know why this is practiced, as I have never seen 
any good practical results from such training on 
wild colts. 



HOW TO HALTER-BREAK COLTS 4 1 

If you wish to teach a colt to follow without a 
rope you may get him in a large box-stall or ring 
or small corral with the fence high enough so as 
stop all attempts at jumping over, and discourage 
him in any effort. Standing in the center of the 
ring you may start him up slowly with a crack oi 
the whip, but not hitting him, and allow him to 
run until he slackens his speed of his own accord, 
when you will stop him and make him turn the 
other way by still cracking the whip, but not 
hitting him, as anything that will hurt him will 
teach him to be afraid and will have its effects in 
after training. Now, if he does not stop make 
him turn the other way again until he will stop. 
This may be repeated from one side and then the 
other, but very few will ever resist this over ten 
minutes. When they stand still you may snap 
the whip and they will face you. You will ap- 
proach them now and pet them, if having taught 
them how to eat sugar you may give them a 
piece, if not, give them something which they like, 
such as apples, bread, or even oats or hay if they 
will not eat anything else. Now, lay the whip 
over the back with the loop hanging down close 
above the hocks, using the words " Come here," 
and having been taught to lead by either of the 
first two methods he will readily step up when 
you will pet him for it. Thus encouraging him, 
he will soon learn to follow you all over without 
either rope or halter, and not being afraid of you 
there will be no fear of his running away as in 



42 FIRST METHOD OF TAMING 

the former method where there is so much fear 
put into the colt. Now, this method should 
never be used unless a colt has become gentle or 
been trained by the first method of " Horse Tam- 
ing to Harness." By this method I have had 
great success in teaching horses to allow me 
to catch them after they have been turned out in 
pastures or paddocks, but always bringing them 
something whenever going close to them, petting 
and speaking kindly to them. 

FIRST METHOD OF TAMING COLTS FOR 
USE OF HARNESS. 

After having your colt well halter broke, you 
will braid his tail up with a piece of soft rope by 
wrapping the rope about the bony part of the tail, 
and tying both ends of the rope at the end of the 
braid with a half hitch; thenidoubling the tail, 
forming a loop, tie the end of the braid to the 
bony part of the tail, allowing the wraps to come 
below the half hitches so that the tail will not slip 
down if a strain should come on it. In order to 
do this, you will have to be very quiet, easy, slow 
and your movements steady. Beginning on his 
neck you will smooth the hair the way that it 
lays, gradually getting nearer the tail; if he shows 
any sign of being timid and steps as though he 
would like to get away from you, you will stop 
and begin again at his neck, gradually working 
back, but if he should want to step away allow 



FIRST METHOD OF TAMING 43 

him to walk around you as much as he desires, 
keeping your hand on the same spot while he is 
doing so. When he stops gradually begin to 
smoothe him again until at last he will allow you 
to stroke the tail and gently touch it; when you 
take hold of it — have a good hold for he is liable 
to turn a little quickly, but you will stay, turning 
with him until he stops; then braid his tail, form- 
ing the loop, place the halter strap in and make 
a slip hitch on the loop of the tail, not on the 
strap itself, so that it may be let go or pulled out 
very quickly; but if he is too ugly then you may 
bring another horse alongside of him in one cor- 
ner and braid his tail up in a similar manner as is 
mentioned in " Halter Breaking Colts," but gen- 
erally colts that you have halter broke one 
day you will want to tame the next, as this 
method gives better practical results than leav- 
ing them stand. You may judge how far back to 
tie the head by studying the disposition of the 
different horses. A cold blooded horse will not turn 
quickly and often will beome discouraged if he 
is forced to turn very short, so you will leave 
him with a longer strap and his head not so far 
back, beginning to work slowly and as he sub- 
mits shortening the strap and then begin to crowd 
your work closer, but a mustang's head may be 
tied a little shorter back, and will have to be 
allowed to turn some little time before you can 
do very much work, for if he should endeavor to 
get away he will buck and throw himself and 



44 FIRST METHOD OF TAMING 

may cause a fracture in the neck. But by tying 
him back gradually in turning he will soon give 
up, when you may crowd all your work on him as 
much as possible. A draft horse's head may be 
tied back and you may go to work on him at 
once, he will soon give up; standard bred horses 
you must be very careful of, as they are usually 
quick and high spirited and if forced too soon will 
make a very hard fight. These must be worked 
slowly in the beginning and not tied back too 
short; for if tied too short they will turn too 
quickly and fall, but allowed to come under the 
influence of the turn gradually, their heads may 
be taken back a little shorter, but not until they 
submit should anything be crowded upon them. 
Thoroughbreds should only be worked in an in- 
closure with not so much room, and still easier 
than the standard bred, but it will not take so 
long, as when they give up they will make no 
further efforts— being game horses they will stand 
under anything that may be brought on them. 

Having determined how far back }our horse's 
head should be tied, let him loose in a large 
corral, or even in an open field where there is 
nothing that he might get mixed up with, such 
as trees or anything that he may fall against; 
take a very light pole and at the proper 
time gradually approach him. If he seems 
to be too much afraid, gradually walk 
around him, coming closer and closer until you 
can touch him, then pole him all over lightly 




I < 



FIRST METHOD OF TAMING 45 

until he submits and will allow the pole to touch 
him any place without moving or showing signs 
of fear. Then take a sheet or blanket and begin 
to shake it some distance away from him and if 
afraid of it he will immediately begin to turn. 
Gradually walk around him, shaking it all the 
time, until he will allow you to come close to him. 
When he stops then let him smell it, touch him 
gently with it until he will allow you to throw it 
up in the air and let the blanket fall upon him, or 
under him. Then take a harness and do the 
same with the harness, until he will allow you to 
stand and throw it on him from the side upon 
which his head is tied. When he has given up to 
this, you may place your left hand on his left hip. 
If the head is tied on the left side, press against 
his hip so as to raise the weight off that leg. 
Reach down with the right hand, take hold of his 
hoof, raise the leg up straight so as not to hurt 
him. If he is afraid of this, take hold of the 
strap and turn him quickly nineteen or twenty 
times and raise the leg up again. When he sub- 
mits to this get under him as in the act of a 
blacksmith shoeing a horse, hammer on the foot 
and rub it, then, go on the other side, having a 
piece of light rope tied around the neck for a 
hand hold close to his shoulders, which must be 
loose; take hold with the left hand when standing 
on the right side facing front; let the right hand 
slip down, leaning against the horse's shoulder so 
as to raise the weight from that foot. You will 



46 FIRST METHOD OF TAMING 

then raise the horse's foot, and if he will not 
stand and allow this to be done, turn him as you 
did in raising the hind leg, then let the strap 
loose and tie it on the other side. He will now 
stand and allow you to go to his tail without 
any trouble, so shift sides as quickly as possible 
and using the pole the same as on the other 
side, blanket and harness, and picking the 
feet up vice versa. After having raised the left 
front leg you may mount as in the act of volting, 
but do not jump on the first attempt, only rais- 
ing yourself about twelve inches from the ground, 
then speak to him and pet him; continue this 
until he will allow you to jump on, then teach 
him to turn while on his back, but do not remain 
on too long the first time. Jump off and pet him, 
when he will turn and stop at the word and show 
no signs of fear. You will then let his head 
loose and place some one on his back and lead 
him around a little; then put your saddle harness 
on, and if a doubtful case, put the front strap 
hobbles with the knee pads, as he may be dropped 
on his knees a few times, at the same time using 
the word " whoa." This will teach him to stop 
when he hears that word. Have your cart in 
readiness to put on him, using a collar and hames, 
no check or blinds on the bridle, and bring him 
in front of the cart, standing on the left side. 
With the rope of the hobbles over the left arm, 
you will raise the shafts of the cart and draw them 
over his back. If he does not stand, drop him on 



FIRST METHOD OF TAMING 47 

his knees, using the word " whoa." This will not 
have to be done more than once or twice in any 
case. Then reach over the back with the left hand 
and place the right shaft log on the right shaft, 
and then the left, all this time facing the cart; 
pull the cart up in place and fasten the shaft girth 
very loosly, then tie a strap from the axel in the 
loop of the tail, for having control of a horse by 
any member of his body it is easy to keep 
control of him by keeping control of that mem- 
ber. Now, he is practically hitched up, as he can 
not get out of the cart in one jump. You may now 
hook up the traces, all the while keeping hold of 
the rope in the halter, but very few colts 
will ever move until called upon after being 
brought under submission. Tie both wheels to 
the shafts so as they will not turn, leaving 
the shaft girth very loose so the shaft will 
move six inches to either side, having a strap 
attached to the bit under the jaw to prevent it 
from coming out on either side, and standing on 
the left side, holding the left rein in the hand, 
taking hold of the shaft with the right hand and 
pulling one step to the left, then stop the colt 
and pet him; but this should not be done until 
rope and hobbles have been removed from the 
colt's feet, unless he is a very doubtful case, 
repeating on the right side what has been done 
on the left. After he has taken the one step on 
the right, go on the left and get him to take two 
steps. Repeat this from side to side, increasing in 



48 FIRST METHOD OF TAMING 

the number of steps every time until he will make 
a complete circle on either side, when you will 
gradually step back from his head and speak to 
him and start him turning until you can stand be- 
hind the cart and turn him either side from a tug at 
the line before you allow him to go ahead. This 
not only teaches him to turn, but teaches him to 
get in the collar and lug or pull, and prevents 
him learning such habits as jibing and others. 
You may put the lines up in the turrets, and give 
him a little exercise, allowing to take his own 
time, and do not crowd him to any extent what- 
ever; do not ask him to go out of a walk, or 
remain in harness over ten minutes after he will 
answer to the touch of either line. This may be 
repeated the next day; that is, the part of the 
method which is used in the cart before driving 
him out on the streets. When taking him out 
on the streets put a kicking strap on for safety. 
Take him every place where he will see ordinary 
objects that very often frighten horses, such as 
electric and cable cars, steam engines, awnings, 
etc. You will find that they will not be afraid 
in taking them there when they are first broken, 
but were you to keep them away until they have 
become accustomed to the cart, harness and new 
surroundings and then bring them to those 
objects, they would be very apt to shy. If they 
are a little afraid of any object do not urge them 
up any closer than they will go. You may lead 
them by any object and they will not be much 



FIRST METHOD OF TAMING 49 

frightened if they have confidence in you, which 
they will have if you have not taught them to fear 
you. 

The second day they should not be driven 
around more than half an hour and allowed to go 
slowly, just a little trot, faster than a walk. 
When unhitching them have alum lotion and 
syringe the mouth out and wash all places where 
the harness touched so as to prevent the colt 
from becoming sore; rub him off well with a piece 
of sack or cloth. This will make him gentle, 
beginning at his nose rubbing up over the head 
and ears, and touch every part of him lightly. 
This lesson may be repeated until he becomes 
cheerful, when he may be put in a bit and har- 
ness. A smooth, plain bit, broken in the center, 
with elastic checks, may be put upon him, loosely 
the first time, and only left on while he fights; 
but as soon as he gives up they should be taken 
off, and put on him for a greater length of time 
every day, shortening the check as he raises his 
head. These checks should be for a roadster 
one overdrawn, and two side checks; for a saddle 
horse, two high side checks and two low side 
checks, but a gutta percha dumb jockey is still 
better for either saddle or carriage horse, but not 
for the roadster. Now, every colt's mouth must 
be prepared for the bit, as the sharp edges on the 
teeth probe the tongue and cut the cheeks, and 
if in a city every colt should be shod light before 
he has been driven the second time, for the hoof 



50 TO TEACH A COLT HOW TO STAND HITCHED 

may break and make his feet tender. Do not 
place the checks on while driving until he has 
become accustomed to carrying his head up in 
the bitting harness, when the check may be used 
in driving. When driving, if a colt should show 
fear at any object, turn his head away from it 
while passing until almost past the object he is 
afraid of, then let his head come straight. An 
object passed three or four times in this way will 
teach the colt not to shy at it. 



TO TEACH A COLT HOW TO STAND 
HITCHED. 

A bridle and halter combined should be used 
for this, that is a leather halter with simply a light 
brow-band put on, making a head stall of it, with 
strap and buckle to fasten bits in the horse's 
mouth, a ring under the jaw in which to fasten 
rope; seeing that no check is used for the first 
five or six days, this may be put on the colt and 
left on him in the stable, simply unstrapping the 
bit. After having driven him some distance the 
second day, take him to a fence where he can not 
turn around, so as to prevent the pulling of the 
head to one side, fastening a rope in the head 
stall and tying him to the fence or railing. This 
may be repeated every time he is taken out 
driving. When hitching him to a post or the 
corner of a fence for the first time, he must be 
tied very close so as to not give him too much 



HOW TO TEACH A COLT TO BACK UP 5 1 

room to step to one side; the head being pulled 
back he may fall, and will cost you a new shaft, 
for if he falls upon the shaft he will surely break 
it. After he has learned to stand tied or hitched 
to a fence or post with a short rope, the rope 
may be lengthened out to the length which is 
ordinarily used, then, a heavy weight may be 
used, putting the end of the hitching strap 
through the ring of the bit and fastening it to 
the ring in the head-stall. This I do not recom- 
mend to use until the colt is thoroughly well 
broken and will stand hitched any place without 
the least sign of fear or endeavoring to get away. 



HOW TO TEACH A COLT TO BACK UP. 

Stand in front of him with a piece of heavy 
cord, pressing it on his nose, at the same time 
using the word " Back," and if he bows his head 
down, pet him. Then repeat, press until he 
takes one step, when you will pet him again; 
repeat this several times, making him back first 
with one foot and then the other, always repeat- 
ing the word " Back." Continue this lesson 
until he will step back nine or ten steps, without 
stopping. This may be repeated the next day 
until he will back at the command of the voice. 
Then attach the string (just above the rings of 
the bit) to the bridle, having the reins come from 
the rings in the bit on both sides of the horse 
through the shaft lugs with the shaft girth 



52 HOW TO TEACH A COLT TO BACK UP 

fastened down so as to hold the shaft lugs down 
in their place, standing behind the horse pulling 
on both reins lightly, but not steady. If one pull 
does not bring him, give a number of them, at 
the same time saying " Back." As soon as he 
takes one step, pet him for it. He will learn 
that you want him to back when you pull on 
the reins, and, therefore, will back very readily. 
Repeat this until you can back him straight or 
on either side as you wish, when you will 
lengthen the string on his nose so as to make 
more of a pull come on the bit and repeat until 
he will back readily from a tug on the bit. 
Now put him in the cart, stand behind the cart 
and give a pull on the reins very lightly. If he 
does not back when spoken to and the bit being 
pulled on, take your cord and press on his nose 
the same as in the first lesson, then speak to him 
and pet him. This will teach him not to be 
afraid. Sometimes they are a little afraid to go 
against the weight while they are in a breeching 
hitched to any rig, but after having been once or 
twice backed they will back readily, but if they 
do not back very clever put the cord back on the 
bridle and repeat the second lesson while in the 
cart until they become very clever in backing. 
Continue this lesson until they will back for you 
readily by speaking to them. 



HOW TO BREAK COLTS WITH HIND 
HOBBLES. 

This is practiced very much in the western 
country where they tie to one or both hind legs 
a rope passed around the neck in between the 
front legs and fastened, when the trainer hits 
the colt all over with sacks, but this method 
alone I have never seen used very successfully. 
I had two colts sent to me that trainers had 
been tying in this way for twenty-one days, and 
they were just as wild the morning of the last 
day as they were before they had been touched. 
They would strike, bite and kick. The failure. 
I believe, was due to their handling, for they 
were never made to repeat their work after hav- 
ing been, let loose to find out whether they had 
submitted to their treatment or not, so we must 
always put our horses to a test after the first 
lesson to ascertain whether they have sub- 
mitted. 

After a colt has been well halter-broken, you 
may tie his head back, as in former methods, 
with a heavy strap which is made like a Dutch 
collar to go over his neck, coming well back 
on his shoulders, strong, heavy straps to be at- 
tached on either side. These should be made to 
53 



54 HOW TO BREAK A HORSE WITH HIND HOBBLES. 

fasten with a loop, not a buckle, and should be 
well wrapped with something soft so as not to 
chafe the fetlocks while they are on. Throw 
these between the hind legs, pick one up and 
placing the end through the loop, fasten it to 
the Dutch collar very short so as to take the 
foot almost from the ground. Then let his head 
loose and fasten the other strap on the other 
side the same way. If you do not get these 
straps short enough, you will find that he can 
handle himself quite freely, so they must be 
taken so short that he can just stand, not falling 
when he moves. Now get a heavy pole to imi- 
tate the shaft of a cart, lay it on his back and 
touch him all over with it, and use the blanket 
as in former method; also throw the harness on 
him until he is not afraid of it. If he is a doubt- 
ful case, you may leave him in any lot for half 
a day without injuring him, providing you have 
the hobbles well made and so they will not jam 
on the fetlocks when drawn tight, but the lot 
must not be a sandy one, or a place where there 
is loose dirt, for if it gets inside of the hobbles 
it will chafe him and his legs will swell. Every- 
thing that you wish to do with him must be re- 
peated after you have taken him out of the hob- 
bles, so that he will not become discouraged or 
feel afraid when you undertake to handle him 
the next day. This is a very good method when 
used with the first described as an after lesson, 



HOW TO BREAK A HORSE WITH HIND HOBBLES. 55 

which will give good results. Also teach him to 
turn, pull, stop, start, back as in former method, 
but this must not be done while he is in the 
hobbles, as it would discourage him and may 
make him sulk. 




56 HOW TO BREAK A HORSE FOR SADDLE 



HOW TO BREAK A HORSE FOR SADDLE. 

A horse must be well halter broken and very 
tame if you wish a gentle saddle horse. Gentle- 
ness is to be considered greatest of all, then 
comes gameness so that he will go any place that 
you want him to, and if he is strong and active 
with these qualities he will make a good, service- 
able saddle horse. All of these qualities must be 
in a horse whether used by a lady or gentleman. 
You may pick any horse, even without any gait 
except his natural gaits, such as run, trot, walk, 
or pace, and make a saddle horse out of him with 
all the gaits. He will make a pretty horse in 
action if his actions in his natural gaits are pretty. 
A high-stepping trotter will make a high-stepping 
single-footer, and a light running horse will make 
a light, easy galloper, so these qualities will also 
have to be sought if you wish a desirable looking 
horse. Now to accompany these we must have 
the formation, a fine head, shapely neck and 
body, with good sound limbs. For a gentle- 
man's saddle horse I think one of nearly full- 
blood (thoroughbred), as they are game, gentle 
when handled properly, quick, with good wind, 
well muscled and good, sound limbs. But for a 
lady's saddle horse I find that the standard-bred 
make the best. They have the gameness of the 
thoroughbred, docility which can not be equaled, 
are active and easily taught, and can be taught 





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f n^M^HHE IpHBHBHI^^^ 


■SPSS w 





HOW TO BREAK A HORSE FOR SADDLE 57 

all the gaits by a lady herself. Therefore, after 
trained, are easily managed by tender hands. 

After seeing that the horse is well halter broke 
and is thoroughly gentle by our first system of 
treatment, a saddle and blanket may be placed on 
him, with streams of cloth hanging down on 
either side, with a band around his nose high 
enough so it will not shut the wind off, forming 
it into a head stall, and fastening reins under- 
neath the jaw. This band should fit snugly on 
the nose, so as it will turn the head either side 
when the rein on that side is pulled. This strap 
should not be over five-eighths of an inch wide, 
and may be round, or a roll of leather which I 
think is the best, having a soft piece of leather 
under the jaw just where the reins fasten in to 
prevent from breaking the skin by the working 
of the rein. The trainer mounting the saddle 
when the horse has been taught to stand, if he 
will not stand and has been broken by the former 
method, he may be taken by the head and tail 
and turned a few times sharply, when letting go 
of the tail at the same time say " Whoa," then 
attempting, after petting him, to get on. It is 
customary always to handle horses on the left 
side, that is, in doing anything that can be done 
on one side. This is a habit, or custom, with 
different nationalities and races, some working on 
the left side, this including all our English speak- 
ing people, while a great many others do all the 
work on the right side. After getting into the 



58 HOW TO BREAK A HORSE FOR SADDLE 

saddle, and he is willing to stand, he should be 
petted and caressed. Reaching down with the 
hand parallel with the nose and pulling out to 
the side by light jerks, chirping to the colt, when 
he moves or steps on that side, pet him. Then, 
use the other hand on that side, and when he 
steps from the light jerk again, speak to him and 
pet him. Continue this treatment, first on one 
side and then on the other, until he will turn 
completely around either side; then you may walk 
him, after making a turn a few steps ahead, when 
you will turn again. This much may be given 
him in his first lesson, including taming, after 
having been halter broken. That is, taming 
with the head and tail system, going through all 
the method as used in breaking in harness, ex- 
cepting hitching him to harness and cart, at 
which point you will begin to teach the saddle 
instead. 

This lesson should be repeated the second day 
by taking the halter strap and fastening it to his 
tail, the same as when taming him, tying him 
short so that he must turn when he moves, and 
make him turn a number of times, first on one 
side and then on the other, before getting into the 
saddle. This practiced for a few mornings before 
giving him his lesson from the saddle in turning, 
will make him much lighter to turn, as he will 
give his head when the rein is touched. Every 
time vou pull on the reins to turn him, the pull 



HOW TO BREAK R HORSE FOR SADDLE 59 

should be straight to the nose. That is, in a par- 
allel line from the hand to the strap on the nose, 
and should be done with gentle jerks. The lighter 
touch you give to the horse, the better reined he 
will be, as a very fine reined horse will only come 
from very gentle handling. Some trainers imag- 
ine if they jerk and pull hard, they will get their 
horses to run more quickly, but this is not so, for 
the easier touch, if direct, the quicker your horse 
will be in turning. When he becomes well prac- 
ticed, and will turn with your lightest touch, then 
have one rein to come from under the jaw over 
the neck, holding it on the opposite side so as the 
pull will come equally on both reins, that is to 
make the strain on the neck as well as under the 
jaw. This will teach him to rein from the neck 
instead of pulling him around by the mouth, prac- 
ticing him by this method, first on one side and 
then on the other until he becomes so easily 
turned that at the least pull up on one side he 
will turn to the other. This can be done in three 
weeks if properly handled. Now, no steel should 
be put in a colt's mouth that is to be trained for 
a saddle horse, until he is well reined, and that 
the lightest touch will turn either way or stop; 
when, after having his mouth prepared, a dumb 
jockey may be used. These are made of a gutta 
percha band with two gutta percha arms and 
placed over the back of the colt, which fits on as 
a saddle, with elastic checks from the arm to the 
bit. 



60 HOW TO BREAK A HORSE FOR SADDLE 

After having the colt well reined, a bridle may 
be put on, still leaving the nose band in place 
with two reins, and two reins to the bridle, which 
is four; the four reins may be used together in 
turning, or stopping, but do not use the reins of 
the bridle as much as the strap rein, but grad- 
ually increase the use until your colt will rein 
with the slightest touch of the bridle rein. Then 
you may take the nose band off, and put two 
more reins on the bridle. The first two reins put 
on should always he the curb rein, the last two 
being the snaffle. We may now begin to teach 
him his gaits. 

The only gait we should have taught him in his 
first series of lessons of breaking him to the sad- 
dle should be a walk. The next gait should be a 
trot and slow gallop. When he will walk, trot 
or lope just as we wish, we may teach him to 
single foot. This is all done by riding in the 
saddle. 

If you wish to retain your horse with a light 
mouth, teach him this with a strap on his nose, 
having a light set of shoes put on the front feet 
or no shoes at all, with heavy shoes on the hind 
feet, sitting well back on his back and carrying 
his head very high, urging him on. This will 
bring him into a fox trot. When he has taken 
two or three steps, let his head down, pet him, 
speak kindly and allow him to walk some distance, 
when you will repeat. Do not endeavor to get 



HOW TO BREAK A HORSE FOR SADDLE 6l 

him to single fcot too much in the first lesson, as 
this gait is not natural and is very hard on him at 
first attempt. Those muscles which required to 
be developed for this gait have had no oppor- 
tunity previously and he will become sore if too 
much work is given him. You will soon learn 
this by the way he will fret and sweat, This mav 
be repeated from day to day, each time increas- 
ing the distance you will make him single 
foot, until he will single foot for you a half 
mile before you begin to make him single foot 
rapidly. 

Now, to do this, you will have to have the 
front shoes changed and heavier ones put on, so 
as he will reach out more; by this time the hind 
ones are worn down some. If they were an 18 
ounce iron shoe behind in ten days they would 
be about the weight to balance a nine ounce 
shoe in front, for single footing. If this method 
is followed, in one month's time your horse will 
be a square, easy and rapid fast single foote r . 
After having taught him to single foot, and you 
want him to single foot at the touch of the curb 
rein, to trot on the snaffle rein, so that you may 
keep a steady hold while raising to the trot in 
your saddle, and also, if you wish to make your 
horse a combination, he will trot while hitched 
to a buggy being the same rein used in harness. 
To teach them to lope you should always teach 
them with a loose rein, so now he will trot from 



62 HOW TO BREAK A HORSE FOR SADDLE 

the snaffle, single foot from the curb, and lope 
from both reins being carried loosely. 

Very nearly all saddle horses can be made 
good single footers or good trotters, easy lopers 
if well trained, providing they have the life in 
in them. 



ETIQUETTE IN THE SADDLE. 

I feel that this is all nonsense, and all who 
have much work to do in the saddle agree with 
me. The riding teacher will tell you one thing 
is right and some one else will tell you it is 
wrong, and I think the best guide in these mat- 
ters is common sense. Some will dwell on how 
to carry your whip, and in which hand to carry 
it without regard to your being right or left- 
handed. If you ask them the reason for any of 
these rules, they will tell you it is the way it is 
done in Europe or somewhere else. We want 
rules and methods that will teach us how to stay 
in the saddle when we get there, and yet look 
to the best advantage at the same time. We 
should consider first, comfort to ourselves; sec- 
ond, comfort to the horse; third, a pleasing ap- 
pearance to others. 

For comfort to yourself see that your bridle 
is just the one that will enable you to handle 
your horse with ease. A good bit for ordinary 
horses is one that can be used as a snaffle or 
curb, or both, but sometimes you may find this 
will not do for your horse and a more severe bit 
is needed. If so, get one that you will not have 
to use much, so that with a light pull the horse 
63 



64 ETIQUETTE IN THE SADDLE. 

can be stopped short. Next, look after your 
saddle. See that it has a comfortable seat, and, if 
a lady's saddle, that the horn is solid and fast in 
the tree, and also look well to your girths. If 
the fastenings are straps and buckles, see that 
they are strong. Straps and ring fastenings are 
safer and they will enable you to cinch a horse 
tighter, and your saddle is not so liable to turn. 
Have a balancing strap on the side saddle. 






HOW TO SIT ON A HORSE. 

To sit on a horse the first thing to be consid- 
ered is your own comfort and next to please 
others. For comfort have a loose seat, that is, do 
not grip your saddle in any part, for this soon 
tires the muscles, and becoming weary you can- 
not ride with ease. Sit up straight as you would 
in a chair. Use the same rules in your carriage 
of body as you would in ordinary circumstances, 
that is, carry your shoulders well back, and do 
not sit stiff but loosely and natural, facing right 
in front of you, and let your legs hang as 
straight as necessary to comfort, with the feet 
a little advanced, parallel with the horse's body. 
Now, if sitting naturally and not lazily, your 
feet will be still when the horse is walking. By 
this method you have your balance always, and 
if your horse is starting on a trot, you will raise 
in your stirrups just as much and no more than 
the horse's action will raise you. If the horse 
is loping, let your body give to every jump, and 
on turning either side, swing your body, carry- 
ing the weight on the stirrup on the side to 
which the horse is turning. By following these 
rules, in a short time any one can become a good 
rider. 

65 



66 HOW TO SIT ON A HORSE. 

To handle the reins of a saddle horse, you 
must either use two bits, or one bit with four 
reins if you want to keep your horse light at 
hand, and do not wish to interfere with his gait 
and harness. When trotting, always use the 
snaffle rein, for this will be the rein used in driv- 
ing him to harness. Some horsemen in different 
parts teach their horses to trot when they are 
taken hold of by the mane. This is chiefly done 
in Kentucky and Missouri, but when your horse 
is single-footing or loping, it would be awkward 
if not impossible, to reach from a buggy and 
take a horse by the mane; so if he is taught to 
trot by the snaffle-rein you can always have him 
trot when he is hitched to a buggy. When 
single-footing, always use a loose, unsteady 
curb-rein. By drawing on the curb-rein un- 
steadily, it will cause a little irritation and im- 
mediately bring your horse into a single-foot. 
In loping, always start this with a loose rein, 
leaning well forward with the right hand 
stretched so that the reins will lay well on the 
neck, urging him by speaking or a touch of the 
heel or whip. 



DRIVING. 

When driving a free-going horse, do not pull 
on the reins unless you speak to him. If you 
want the horse to go faster and wish to hold a 
tighter line over him, always urge him with as 
little irritation as possible, for if he gets excited 
and goes at it madly he will bolt and soon learn 
to pull or lug, which is a very unpleasant habit 
in a driving horse. If he is whipped when trot- 
ting as fast as he can go, he will be taught to 
break or given cause to hitch. This habit takes 
time and pains to remedy. When once a horse 
acquires the habit of hitching, it is very difficult 
to get him straight. When you wish your horse 
to slacken his speed, speak to him in a mild tone 
and if he does not catch the words he will un- 
derstand the sound. Many drivers do not pay 
any attention to this, and whip an old horse for 
stopping while they have been conversing with 
some one. When he slackens his speed, give 
him a loose and comfortable rein. Always be 
as pleasant as you can; this will encourage and 
not discourage your horse. When you are 
speeding, be reasonable in your distance. Do 
not ask your horse to speed a long distance 
hitched to a heavy buggy or over hard roads. 
67 



68 DRIVING. 

A quarter of a mile on a level dirt road with a 
good strong horse is a long distance for him to 
go at full speed. If you do not speed him too 
far and hitch him to a light rig, a short distance 
at high speed will improve his road gait. If you 
do not follow common-sense and jerk on the 
reins when anything does not suit you, you will 
break the horse's mouth, spoil his disposition, 
and prove yourself void of reason. When a 
horse's mouth is once broken and becomes sore, 
it takes a very light pull on the reins to aggra- 
vate him and may teach him disagreeable habits, 
such as pulling on one rein, running away, slob- 
bering, lugging, etc. If the teeth are sharp, the 
bit drawn from one side to the other will press 
the cheeks against the sharp edges of the teeth, 
cutting the cheeks. In case the teeth are sharp 
on the edges, they should be floated. Some 
horses when aggravated will often not go at all, 
and will baulk, but this habit of baulking in 
buggy horses is generally caused by high check- 
ing. The horse's mouth is very sensitive and is 
the chief means of conveying to him your wishes 
when driving, so if you want a good driver you 
must save his mouth all that you can. This 
you may do greatly by your voice. The more 
gentle and tender you touch the reins the more 
apt and clever driver your horse will be. With 
some practice you will learn that a horse can 
be taught to do things most readily by the voice 



DRIVING. 69 

and that the voice is better than any bit that 
money could buy. For instance, if your horse 
has signs of speed you may urge him and keep 
him steady in a manner that you never could do 
with whip and bit, but when you speed him do 
not press him too much. Start him easy, stop 
him before he breaks and let him trot or pace, 
the gait that comes most natural to him. He 
will soon learn to road without breaking into 
a run with a loose rein, but when you speed him, 
always steady him but not with a tight rein. 
Speak to him often and encourage him. You 
may use the whip a little if your horse is lazy, 
but not under any other circumstances in speed- 
ing, and then only tapping him as lightly ?s 
possible. Begin with a very short distance 
and increasing from day to day until you have 
reached the distance you desire to speed him. 
After speeding him, always examine your horse 
and see if he has hurt himself by interfering or 
over-reaching, when you will fit boots for him 
accordingly, but no young horse should be 
speeded without quarter boots, and with heavy 
shoes. If a young horse should strike himself 
and get sore from it, he will become afraid to 
travel for fear of hurting himself again; but if 
he has hurt himself get the soreness all out and 
see that it is well before trying to speed him 
again. Every colt or horse that has not had a 
course of training should be well booted when 



JO DRIVING. 

taken out to speed. This will prevent him from 
striking himself and so remove the cause of dis- 
couragement. Do not let the horse get chafed 
in any place from harness or vehicle. To pre- 
vent this, if the horse is soft, bathe in alum 
water the parts where the harness will chafe, and 
this will harden the skin. Also be careful not 
to scald him where the harness touches by get- 
ting him too hot when he is fresh from the 
country. Also do not work any horse for speed 
in a heavy rain, as this will shorten his gait. It 
is easier to prevent a bad habit than to cure one. 
There have been many good horses spoiled from 
carelessness and ignorance on the part of the 
drivers, but no habit spoils a horse so much in 
driving as the habit of lugging, as he is not 
safe even for the best of drivers. 




HOW TO DRIVE IN A CITY AND PREVENT 

COLLISIONS AND YET DRIVE 

WITH EASE. 

Can you drive a horse with ease and comfort 
in a large city? If you do, you will know how 
to appreciate your quality of driving when in 
a crowded street. If you cannot drive well, let 
me give you a few points on the art and how to 
avoid accidents. First, do your own thinking 
and stop instead of thinking that the other 
team will stop. Always turn to the right when 
you are passing another team unless it will be 
inconvenient, when you may turn to the left to 
avoid an accident, but, in the United States 
turning to the right is the rule. In England 
they turn the other way. Now, if you think 
the other team will stop or turn out, you may 
be mistaken, for the other driver may think the 
same as you in regard to yourself, and he driv- 
ing straight ahead and you also waiting for each 
other to stop or turn out will run into each 
other and you may cause an accident or get 
blocked if nothing else. If you do not get 
mixed in this way, just do your part, by keeping 
out and away from the very appearance of 
trouble. Always drive on the right side of the 
7i 



72 HOW TO DRIVE IN THE CITY. 

street when convenient, and always turn slowly 
and on the right side while going around a cor- 
ner. If you are turning to the left, go over to 
the right side of the street on the side which 
you are going to turn. When you turn you 
will be on the right side of the street you are 
now on and thus avoid any teams that are com- 
ing up on their right side. If you wish to turn 
to the right, turn close around the corner, 
which will cause you to be on your right side 
and thus avoid any passing teams coming from 
opposite directions. 

To avoid running into pedestrians going over 
crossings, drive over very slowly and have your 
horse in hand so as to stop him even at the 
next step. It is your place to give way when 
there is danger to life or limb, under every cir- 
cumstance. The pedestrian always has the 
right-of-way over a team. Bicycles and people 
on horse back, etc., also have the right of way, 
and you must always stop your team to let 
them pass. It matters not whether you are on 
the right or left side, this rule must be followed 
in every case. If you do not, you will be held 
responsible for an accident. When a carriage 
is coming that has women and children in it, it 
is not only polite, but it is right and you are in 
duty bound to turn out for them and give them 
the right of way so as not to cause them un- 
easiness. If you should not turn out and yoi 1 



HOW TO DRIVE IN THE CITY. 73 

were on the right side of the street and collided 
with a lady driver and" upset the carriage, in- 
juring the occupants who would likely be chil- 
dren, you might get free from the law, but you 
would have to answer to your God, Who is the 
Judge most High. If one should get killed you 
would be the murderer, for by turning to one 
side or stopping your team it would have pre- 
vented loss of life; but being so selfish of what 
you consider your right, the guilt would be 
upon you. I cannot see any difference in the 
act of doing something that will cause death, 
or not doing something that will prevent it 
when it is in your power. Next to life and 
safety is the comfort of the people that you 
have riding with you. Be careful in crossing 
over car tracks and railway crossings. Cross 
them at a right angle and you will not have 
your wheels smashed, for if you get caught in 
the tracks and try to pull out other than cross- 
ing them at an angle, you may have a break- 
down. This happens every day in large cities. 
When you stop at the sidewalk to let someone 
off, turn your horse away from the walk in order 
to open as much space as possible between the 
wheels, and if it is a lady, drive always to the 
sidewalk on the right side of the carriage; that 
is, if the place of stopping is on your left go 
past it and turn round. It will then be on your 
right. Turn your horse out to the left, step out 



74 HOW TO DRIVE IN THE CITY. 

of the rig, holding the reins in your right hand 
and helping the lady out on the left, taking her 
by the hand. The same rule may be applied in 
helping a lady into a rig, always helping her in 
by keeping her skirts from getting mud off the 
wheels 

Next, we will consider our own comfort in 
driving. If a gentleman is riding in the same 
seat, let him drop his arm behind you. This 
will leave you room to work with both hands 
freely. If a lady, let her sit well over to the 
left side with the right shoulder thrown back a 
little. This will also give you plenty of room. 
Now if you are right-handed and driving with 
a loose rein, carry both reins in the left hand 
and let your hand rest on your lap, but always 
watch your horse and at the least sign or ap- 
pearance of danger you may reach well out with 
your right hand, taking both reins, the left rein 
between the thumb and the first finger so as to 
take hold of it with the left hand immediately, 
now holding both reins between the first and 
second fingers. In case you wish to change your 
hold you can place the rein of either hand be- 
tween the thumb and forefinger of the other 
hand. If something has frightened your horse 
which has caused you to gather your lines, you 
must remember he will never get over a fright 
by causing him more fear. With a shying horse, 
it is a common thing to pull the horse's head 



HOW TO DRIVE IN THE CITY. 75 

around so that he can look at the object he is 
afraid of, urging him as close as possible to it, 
even under persuasion of the whip. There is 
nothing I know of in ordinary use that does a 
horse so much harm as this method of treat- 
ment. To avoid all of this and may be the upset- 
ting of a rig, the breaking of an arm, and pos- 
sibly a head, it will be best to turn the horse's 
head the other way and allow him to go by 
unknowingly. Turn his head away from the ob- 
ject, holding tight on both reins so as to hold 
his head in that position and yet not let him 
turn. You may urge him now somewhat, if nec- 
essary. A horse passing an object this way will 
learn to drive by without trouble. 

Never leave your horse untied while hitched 
to a rig and standing on the street. If you do 
not want him to run away, tie him securely with 
a rope, a halter or neck strap, and if necessary 
with a chain, for some horses will chew a rope 
or strap in two. I do not recommend using 
weights, for I have seen horse after horse leav- 
ing, with a weight attached to him, very easily; 
but a rope around the neck and through a ring 
of the bit is strong enough and securely tied 
will hold a horse. So will a neck strap used in 
the same way. A halter may be used by putting 
it on over the bridle, but in case there is no place 
to tie a horse, and you must use a weight, al- 
ways put the strap through the ring in the curb 



?6 HOW TO DRIVE IN THE CITY. 

stone and through one ring in the bit to the 
other; if there is no ring in the curb stone, T 
recommend you to have someone to hold your 
horse, for safety. Of course, a great deal of 
judgment must be used as to which and what 
method is required. There are some horses 
that are never tied by their owners, but even the 
most gentle of these I consider unsafe, and would 
recommend that every horse be securely tied 
when left standing alone. 




HOW TO DRIVE A HORSE THAT HAS BEEN 
SPOILED AND TAUGHT TO PULL. 

If, while going he carries his nose out 
straight, you may take him to dentist and have 
his teeth cut, which, in many cases, will stop 
this; that is, if he is not over-ambitious. If he 
carries his nose on his breast, you will some- 
times find that an overdraw-check will remove 
this by compelling him to carry the nose out 
straight, you may take him to a dentist and have 
dies will help a horse. A horse that pulls so 
badly that the moment you slack the lines he 
will bolt and break into a run, hitch in a two- 
wheeled cart or a wagon that you can turn very 
short. If in the two-wheeled cart, tie both of 
the wheels so that they will not turn; if in a 
wagon, tie only the hind wheels. To do this a 
sandy lot is best, but take him where you can 
get a dirt lot, if nothing else. Now, begin 10 
turn him in as short a circle as possible without 
turning the rig over, and let him turn as quickly 
as you can. Let him run just as long as he 
wants to, but do not let him start to run too 
quickly. Rather wait until he is a little tired of 
turning before giving him a slack rein, until he 
will walk, when you will begin to turn him the 
other way. After he has become tired of turn- 
ing and is willing to turn under a loose rein, 
77 



78 HOW TO DRIVE A HORSE. 

then you may begin to make your circles largely. 
At each time, however, that he wants to bolt or 
run, bring him back to the short turning, each 
time using the word "easy," so that he will 
learn to understand by this word "easy" that if 
he does not go easy or go slow, he will be made 
to turn, which will soon become very distasteful 
to him. Some trainers do what they call "trail- 
ing," which is to take the horses on a race-track 
and let them run around the track with a loose 
rein until they become tired and are willing to 
go slow. Sometimes this will do all that is re- 
quired, but very often neither of these two 
methods are needed, for a nose strap is often all 
that is necessary. This should be fastened in 
the ring of the bit with a strap to the head-piece 
of the bridle, keeping it up from shutting off the 
horse's wind. This brings a direct pull on the 
head instead of the mouth. Now you may "set" 
him or punish him a little on the nose when he 
goes too fast, but at all other times give him 
an easy rein, and with careful handling your 
horse will come back to driving" with an easy 
rein, when you may remove the nose strap and 
drive him on an easy bit of leather or rubber. If 
your horse drives with a side-rein, or on one 
rein, teach him to drive with a loose rein and he 
will soon go straight for you, and with an easy 
bit and careful handling he will be driving as 
clever as ever. 



HOW A LADY CAN MOUNT. 

It is rather a trying ordeal for an inexperi- 
enced rider to mount a tall horse from the 
ground, but with a little practice this is an easier 
feat than one would suppose, and when well per- 
formed makes the rider appear agile and grace- 
ful, giving an air of superior horsemanship, and 
it is well worth any lady's while to acquire. 

For this method of mounting, the first requi- 
site is that the horse should stand still, and if he 
does not know how, he may be taught. Any 
lady can have this done under her direction by 
simply having the groom take the horse in one 
hand by the reins close to the bit, and with the 
other hand holding the tail, drawing the head 
and tail somewhat together, making him turn a 
number of times; the more fractious he seems to 
be the more times he ought to be turned. This 
cannot be overdone in half an hour, but will 
only take four or five minutes with the most 
nervous or stubborn horse, but should always 
be done before the saddle is put on. After 
swinging him a number of times, let go of his 
tail, but not too quickly, for if you do he will 
fall if he has been swung very much. Hold him 
by the bridle, at the same time speaking loud 
79 



80 HOW A LADY CAN MOUNT. 

and sharp, saying "Whoa!" Now having a 
horse that will stand for you, you may proceed 
to mount. When the horse is brought to the 
door or the most convenient place for mount- 
ing, it is well to examine everything before you 
mount, which will give you more confidence and 
do away with a great deal of uneasiness in think- 
ing whether this or that is not right, especially 
when you are riding alone. After examining 
everything thoroughly, take your position on the 
left side of the horse with your right side a few 
inches from the saddle, facing the same way as 
the horse, with your left shoulder slightly thrown 
back. Place the right hand on the second pom- 
mel, holding in it the whip and reins drawn just 
tight enough to give a feeling of the bit. Your 
attendant should stand facing you and as close 
as convenient, still holding the horse by the bit, 
and must stoop forward reaching his right hand, 
in which you will place your left foot, using 
your left hand to raise your skirt. Now let go 
of your skirt, rest your left hand on his shoulder, 
and giving him the cue by bending the right 
knee, spring up erect on the left foot and seat 
yourself sideways on the saddle. Place the right 
knee over the horse. If your attendant is un- 
used to rendering such service, you had better 
teach him by telling him just what to do, where 
to stand, just how high to lift your foot, and cau- 
tion him to put forth strength enought to sup- 



HOW A LADY CAN MOUNT. 8l 

port you steadily without lifting too violently. Do 
not be deterred by awkwardness on his part, or 
on your own, from learning to mount from the 
ground, for the more awkward the attendant 
the better practice for you. Your attendant 
will now adjust your skirt so that it will 
hang properly without dragging, and then 
disengaging the stirrup from beneath the skirt, 
will place your left foot in it. Too much 
care cannot be taken with the position in the 
saddle. The left leg should invariably hang 
from the knee with the heel depressed, and with 
the foot parallel with the horse's side. The 
length of the stirrup strap should be such that 
the knee is out of contact with the hunting 
horn, but near enough to be brought firmly up 
against it by raising the heel. The right knee 
should rest easily but snugly over the pommel 
so as to grasp it in case the horse turns. Neither 
foot should be allowed to sway above or to pro- 
ject so as to be seen awkwardly poking out of 
the skirt. Rise in your stirrup and allow your 
attendant to pull your skirt straight, for it will 
be very awkward should it become disarranged 
on the road. Now, put your handkerchief in 
the pocket, which ought to be on the right side 
of your saddle. The reins may be taken in either 
hand or in both, as you prefer, and start the 
horse by the sound of the voice, which is best, 
or a touch. 



82 HOW A LADY CAN MOUNT. 

A strap fastened to the cantle which comes 
from the stirrup strap will keep the saddle 
steady on the back of the horse, and the rider 
can adjust it to suit her convenience. She can 
let it out or take it up, she being independent 
regarding this. The next thing is to get in the 
saddle. There are many ways, but I will not try 
to describe them all, but will give you a few of 
the best ways that have come to my notice. 

In case your horse has not been taught to 
stand, you may take the pommel and reins in 
your right hand, facing your saddle, and when 
being raised take your seat and hold on to both 
reins as soon as you have placed your knee over 
the pommel. This will cause you to turn. 

Standing on the left side of the horse facing 
the saddle, place the right hand on the second 
pommel, holding in it your reins drawn tight 
enough to give a feeling of the bit, with your 
left hand on the horse's mane, raising your left 
foot and mounting as described in directions 
above. This is the best method when your at- 
tendant is inexperienced, being safer to the 
party mounting, and comes as easy and graceful 
as any other method of mounting. 



HOW TO MOUNT ASTRIDE. 

First, how to get on a gentle horse. Hold 
the reins in the left hand and hold the stirrup 
with the right until you have placed your left 
foot in the stirrup, then press heavily with your 
right hand on the right side of the saddle to 
prevent it from turning over; then spring up 
and raise the right leg over the saddle, putting 
your other foot in the stirrup; you have a seat 
now that can be taken without help on any 
gentle horse. If you have a young horse, or 
one that cannot be trusted, then place your 
left hand in the check of the bridle, standing 
on the left side, facing opposite the way the 
horse is facing; put your left foot in the stirrup 
and swing into the saddle. If your horse wants 
to go or buck, draw his head around and he 
can only turn; but if he is liable to move just 
when you are mounting, you may take the reins 
in the left hand, taking hold of the mane, at the 
same time with the right hand, placing the left 
foot in the stirrup and facing in the opposite 
direction of the horse. Raise yourself high and 
swing the right foot over the horse's back, plac- 
ing the right stirrup quickly. If he goes ahead, 
you will not lose your balance but can take your 
seat even were he to start in a dead run. 
83 



CRAZY JANE. 

Crazy Jane was a beautiful, dark bay mare, 
sired by Venture, a registered horse, nine years 
old, and running loose in the pasture. She had 
been in the hands of many trainers, and had 
been owned by many different men. When the 
writer found her she was owned by a street 
car company. Although they had an expert 
trainer, they could do nothing with her. She 
would stand and kick until she had cleared her- 
self of the vehicle to which she was hitched. 
However, the last time, when the trainer and 
helpers tried to hitch her to harness, she turned 
on them, chasing the four men from the stable. 
Then she was turned out to pasture, where she 
remained eleven months. She was sold to the 
author for a very small sum, but he was re- 
quired to give the street car company a writ 
of release exonerating them from any damage 
she might do by her viciousness as part pay- 
ment. Crazy Jane had taken this name from 
the fact of acting like an insane animal when 
being handled by her trainer, but was subdued 
in about an hour, and driven by a lady for years 
afterward. Her taming was effected by means 
of a cord wrapped around the head back of the 
84 



CRAZY JANE. 85 

ears, and in the mouth, bringing a pressure be- 
tween the atlas and axis, or right behind the 
first joint of the back-bone. While the mare 
was standing like this she was handled all over, 
blankets thrown on her, harness placed upon 
her. tin cans rattled all around her; finally all 
her feet being handled, she submitted. Then 
being hitched up and driven in the heart of the 
city without a kicking strap, check or blinds on 
the bridle. She was sold to a Mr. Boyd, who 
used her as a family driver. After about one 
year's time I went to see Mr. Boyd. On enter- 
ing his yard I found a little girl about four 
years old playing about the mare's hind legs. 
Calling Mr. Boyd's attention to the fact of its 
being dangerous, he simply told me that the 
mare would not hurt the child, for they had 
been in the habit of being together. 




HOW THE RACE HORSE TELEGRAM WAS 
TRAINED. 

Telegram had remained in the stable more 
to be admired than used, for many months. 
His feet had become long from want of use, 
and it looked as though this fast and beautiful 
horse had been laid aside as a back-number, his 
days being over for the race track. When Tele- 
gram had been used as a race horse, he was 
the cause of no end of trouble for his drivers, 
who could not get the horse to stand long 
enough and receive orders from the judges, and, 
as far as hitching him up, Mr. Denny Shea, the 
owner, told me that seven men could not hitch 
the horse up, so allowed Telegram to remain 
standing. So far as his practical use in the city 
was concerned, it could not be thought of, for 
he would not stand long enough to be hitched 
to a vehicle, and would not stop after once 
starting until unhitched. In hitching him on 
the race track, even this could only be done by 
allowing him to jog along and pull the cart on 
him, having snaps on all the harness to get him 
hitched up. Although in this condition, he was 
second to Flying Jib in a fast mile, and he him- 
self had a mark of 2\\2.\. But one day Mr. 
86 



HOW THE RACE HORSE TELEGRAM WAS TRAINED. 87 

Shea asked the writer if he would not try to 
break Telegram of both habits, which was done 
in twenty minutes, when strangers (stable men) 
hitched Telegram to a light cart and left him 
standing on the floor, no one holding him. This 
was done simply by taking him by the halter 
and tail, and turning him a number of times rap- 
idly, letting go of the tail, saying sharply to the 
horse "Whoa," repeating on his other side. This 
soon taught him to brace himself when he heard 
the word "Whoa" spoken harshly. This was 
done in a blacksmith shop, next door to the 
livery stable owned by Fassett & Sons, in Chi- 
cago. Many horsemen were in the livery stable 
hoping to see how the preacher would break 
this horse that had outdone the best trainers in 
America. I may say that not a few of them 
were surprised when the writer entered the sta- 
ble with the horse, handing him over to the 
stable men and telling them to hitch him up, 
for the spectators who knew the horse were say- 
ing among themselves that they had better stop 
that fellow, "he doesn't know what he has got 
hold of." Many expected to see Telegram at 
his old tricks — rearing and plunging — but he 
was hitched up without a movement. The 
preacher wanted the doors opened. No one 
ventured opening the doors, for they all claimed 
to know what would happen to the horse and 
cart. If they opened the door he would go 



88 HOW THE RACE HORSE TELEGRAM WAS TRAINED. 

plunging out into the street and much damage 
would be done. Mr. Shea had the doors opened, 
and the men looked at each other, wondering 
what had happened. Some said the horse was 
"doped," others said he was mesmerized, and 
there was much talk of hypnotism, and one col- 
ored trainer said it was the spirits in the air. But 
Telegram was driven successfully and stopped 
seven times before leaving the run-way which 
lead to the street. He was taken on the track 
and put to all tests, and was owned and driven 
by Mr. Frank Fowler, the bicycle manufacturer, 
for more than two years, and driven on Chicago 
boulevards, remaining quiet and docile. But the 
spectators are still guessing how it was done. 




MR. MULLEN'S FIRST APPEARANCE IN 
CHICAGO. 

At one of the horse sales in Chicago Mr. 
Mullen introduced himself to a number of horse- 
men, seeking colts to break, telling them that 
he could break anything there was in the city, 
it mattered not how wild the animal was, he 
would take it and tame it so as one could pick 
up all its feet or jump on its back and ride it 
with nothing but a halter on, hitch it to a 
vehicle with an open bridle, and drive it about 
without any kicking strap. Some of the men 
at the Stock Yards in Chicago, where this con- 
versation took place, laughed at such asser- 
tions being made by a young man. Some said 
he was crazy, but, however, there are always 
some men who are not willing to judge a man 
before he has been given a hearing, so a trial 
was decided upon. A broncho had been run- 
ning loose on Mr. Piper's farm at Worth, 111., 
no one being found who could halter the horse, 
and thus he had had liberty for eighteen months 
or more, eating good pasture and getting fat. 
This was considered to be a good subject for the 
young man who made such assertions. One 
day about noon the task was undertaken. To 
89 



90 MR. MULLENS FIRST APPEARANCE IN CHICAGO. 

everybody's surprise, the broncho walked into 
a large box-stall with the writer close beside 
him. The men gathered all about, looking 
through cracks, knot-holes and such like, ex- 
pecting every moment the preacher would get 
his brains kicked out. The broncho kept walk- 
ing round and round in the large stall, the 
preacher following him. After many turns one 
way, the horse was spoken to and stopped, and 
then followed in the opposite direction, and 
then, to everybody's surprise, the ^broncho was 
seen standing in about the center of the stall, 
and the trainer placing a leather halter over his 
head. But then the broncho would not lead, 
and the men were asking how this preacher was 
going to get the broncho to the stable, about 
two hundred yards distant from where he was. 
But to the surprise of every one, at the end of a 
long rope he drove the broncho on before him, 
placed the formidable rope rigging and tied him 
to a post, leaving him there while all went to 
lunch. After lunch the broncho was worked 
out by the head and tail system, when he sur- 
prised every one by what had been accomplished 
in such a short time. The broncho's feet had 
all been handled, the author had sprung on his 
back and shouted like an Indian, but there was 
no more fear, harnessed him and hitched him 
and drove out from the farm to the little town 
of Worth and back. Then the broncho was put 



MR. MULLEN S FIRST APPEARANCE IN CHICAGO. 91 

to work on a scraper, putting dirt on the Worth 
race track. Although this horse had baffled 
many, yet he was caught, halter-broken, tamed 
and taught to work all in less than one hour. 



MR. MULLEN'S PUBLIC EXHIBITION IN 
CHICAGO. 

While taming vicious horses, many interest- 
ing subjects were brought to Mr. Mullen. A 
very fine gray horse, owned by the fire depart- 
ment of Chicago, which had given no little 
amount of trouble to the hor;3eshoers and was 
known as a very vicious animal, was brought to 
the meetings. Many of the lecal horsemen came 
to see this animal perform, but the author, 
wrapping the cord on the horse's head, holding 
the halter in his hand, walked back towards the 
horse's tail, and asked the horseshoers and 
horsemen with what foot the horse kicked. The 
answer was, "Either foot," but to their aston- 
ishment, and especially of the blacksmith who 
had to do the shoeing, the foot was picked up 
by the author, held until he had shouted and 
screeched, knocked and hammered on the foot 
with a shoe, the blacksmith saying that he could 
not do that. But when he tried he found the 
animal made no resistance, which was a sur- 
prise to them all. This case was enquired after 
five months later, and the horse was found 
to be kind and gentle. 
92 



THE CALKIN'S BRONCHO. 

The Calkin's broncho was a bay about thir- 
teen years old. In an exhibition, the writer 
offered $25 if any man in Chicago would put a 
halter on the same broncho's head and jump on 
his back. Although many hundred horsemen 
were present, there was no offer made by any 
one to accept. The pen in which the broncho 
was had an iron wall at one side. This the 
broncho kicked a hole in. By the use of an old 
horse, as stated in "How to Break Colts," the 
broncho was haltered and taken out of the pen, 
and first subjected to the pull-back rigging. He 
proved to be a very interesting character. He 
would strike, kick or bite at any one who came 
near him, and yet, with the front hobbles, he 
was reduced to a state of subjection so he would 
allow a person to jump on his back, but by no 
means was he tamed. His treatment was re- 
peated the second night by "the head and tail" 
system, followed by laying him down, that is, 
strapping up one front leg, drawing the head 
back to the side and throwing him down; yet 
he was only subdued for the time being. This, 
indeed, proved to be the most stubborn case the 
author has ever seen. He was handled the third 
93 



94 THE CALKIN S BRONCHO. 

time before the public, this time with the hind 
hobbles, having his hind feet hobbled very short. 
He proved to be still more vicious than any one 
had any idea of. A blanket being brought and 
shaken about him, merely to show him that no 
one would hurt him, he snatched it with his 
mouth, holding it between his teeth, and shook 
it as a terrier would a rat. But having a sack 
filled with straw, the author would strike him, 
not hard, merely to draw his attention, follow 
him with the blanket and sack and finally he 
was subjected. Although not being put to hard 
work, he became kind. The last time the author 
saw him, a sixteen-year-old boy harnessed, 
hitched and drove him. 

In these public exhibitions the preacher raised 
several bronchos by the hocks in less than half 
an hour after he began to work on them, al- 
though they had never been handled before, not 
even as much as halter-broken, and drove suc- 
cessfully every horse that was brought to him 
by the public in the fall of 1900. 




HORSE AND HOLINESS. 



Evangelist Mullen Promises His Hearers a Sight 
and Gives Also an Insight. 



"Now, my friends, you have seen how easy it 
is to handle and humble and bring to a state of 
repentance even this vicious and heretofore un- 
manageable horse, will you be more obdurate 
when I try to lead you in the way of light?" 

Broad-shouldered and brawny, with a chest 
as thick and sold as an ice chest, his dark, fleshy 
face lit up by a cheerful smile, Evangelist Wil- 
liam Mullen, who came to Colorado recently 
from the Moody Bible Institute at Chicago, 
turns from horse training to holiness in gne time 
and two motions. 

Evangelist Mullen's method of attracting 
crowds to his open air meetings is certainly 
unique. He advertises that on a certain vacant 
lot in the town or city in which he happens to 
be he will show how the most unruly horse may 
be trained and made docile so that his feet may 
be handled and shod without a struggle. When 
he has conquered the horse, Mr. Mullen begins 
and expounds the gospel. 
95 



96 HORSE AND HOLINESS. 

"I was born in Newcastle-on-Tyne, England, 
33 years ago," said Mr. Mullen, "and I've de- 
voted nearly my whole life to horse training. 
During recent years, however, I have done evan- 
gelistic work in connection with horse train- 
ing." 

Mr. Mullen sometimes, in order to pay his 
expenses, forms a class in horse training and 
demonstrates his system of conquering a horse. 
Over at Ouray, he says, he overcame the vic- 
ious tendencies of a horse thirteen years old, 
and made it as gentle as a lamb. He wants 
anybody who has a vicious horse to bring him 
to one of the open-air meetings and see how 
easily the animal can be brought to time. 

Mr. Mullen preaches tomorrow night in the 
open air near the South Park Congregational 
Church. Before the religious services are com- 
menced he will wrestle with the most intract- 
able beast that is brought to him. — Denver 
Daily News. 



COW BOY RELIGION IN CHICAGO. 



Illustrated by Taming Broncos to Amuse the 
Congregation. 



Chicago, Oct. 14. — "Instead of leading in the 
sraging of 'Heaven Is My Home' I will now 
tame Flying Devil, a vicious bronco owned by 
Brother Smith." 

This is the way Evangelist William Mullen, 
who has come to Chicago to point out the 
errors of the ways pursued by residents, begins 
his meetings. The Rev. Mr. Mullen combines 
the art of busting broncos with that of saving 
wayward souls. He says religion nowadays has 
to have some side attraction, and the large 
crowds that he draws lead the conclusion that 
he is right. 

He holds his meetings in the open air, in 
places that give him ample scope for his eques- 
trian exhibitions. When he appears upon the 
platform that is his pulpit, he is not a very min- 
isterial looking figure. He wears a cordurov 
coat, a sombrero and high-heeled boots. 

The evangelist offers a prayer, then takes off 
his coat. A bronco is led up in front of the 
97 



98 COW BOY RELIGION IN CHICAGO. 

space reserved for the anxious bench, and the 
audience is immediately interested. When the 
wild horse is tamed and the owner has paid the 
small fee which is the only collection taken up, 
the bronco-busting evangelist puts on his coat, 
wipes his heated brow with his handkerchief and 
says his topic will be "Going to Hell at a 2:20 
Gait." 

He has a keen eye and a pleasant face, and 
when he opens the Bible to read a few verses 
of Scripture there is not a person in the audi- 
ence who has the hardihood to walk away before 
the sermon. There is something in the preacher's 
manner that forbids any trifling. His exhibition 
of what he can do with a horse has caused people 
to respect him. Mullen was formerly a cowboy. 
He attended one of Moody's meetings while in 
the East and became converted. He came to 
Chicago and after a course of instruction at the 
Moody Bible Institute, he began to preach. But 
he found that men and women are not eager to 
hear sermons. Advertisements of texts, no mat- 
ter how sensational they happen to be, did not 
draw crowds. It was necessary to add some hu- 
man interest outside of that of soul saving, and 
the horse-taming plan suggested itself. It has 
proved successful and it is Mr. Mullen's theory 
that ministers who desire to gain a large hear- 
ing should provide some good attraction to draw 
those who need converting. — New York Sun. 



PRESS EXTRACTS. 

William Mullen, the horse trainer-evangelist 
who has been giving daily exhibitions of horse- 
breaking on the lake front, has attracted the 
attention of a great many local horsemen, and 
has successfully subdued a number of very bad 
horses. His methods do not differ materially 
from those employed by other horse trainers, 
except that he does not handle them quite so 
roughly and depends more on kindness to ac- 
complish his purpose. He uses a special har- 
ness of ropes and straps that enables him to 
throw the horse to his knees whenever he fights 
too hard, and that is practically the same sys- 
tem that has been employed by many others. 

Last Thursday he tackled a very badly spoiled 
horse belonging to Joe Hartford, of the firm of 
Hartford & Hall. The horse was a seven-year- 
old gelding that came from the Haggin ranch 
in California, and he had whipped half the horse- 
breakers in this city. He would fight from the 
minute he was hooked up until there was noth- 
ing left of the cart or harness, and would strike, 
kick, rear and plunge and throw himself time 
and again until he was free. It took Rev. Mr. 
Mullen just twenty minutes to make a lady's 
horse out of him, and when he finally got him 

99 
LofC. 



100 PRESS EXTRACTS. 

subdued he tied the horse's tail to the crossbar 
of the cart, took off the breeching and tugs 
and drove him with nothing on his head but a 
halter, and before he got through with him he 
made him stand hooked up, perfectly still, while 
he preached a sermon to the crowd out of the 
cart. Horsemen who have watched Mullen 
every day say that he has more control over 
horses than the great horse trainer, Gleason, the 
man who has the reputation of being the 
greatest in the world. — Murray Howe, in Chi- 
cago Times-Herald. 



Wm. Mullen, the horse-trainer evangelist, ac- 
companied by his wife and two children, arrived 
in Holdrege last Saturday morning and has 
since given exhibitions in horse training on the 
streets, preaching the gospel during the entire 
performance. Mullen is of Scotch-Irish parent- 
age and a native of England. Though a man 
weighing over 200 pounds, he was for a number 
of years engaged in horse training in California, 
at which he became an expert. He became con- 
verted some years ago, however, later felt a call 
to preach and with that idea in view he went to 
Chicago and took a course at the Moody Insti- 
tute. Since that time he has traveled and 
preached, breaking horses the while as a source 
of livelihood and as a means of advertising. Mr. 
Mullen gave an exhibition at the corner of East 




C/3 O 

Oh X 



W X 
O 



PRESS EXTRACTS. 101 

avenue and Haydon street Monday evening, tak- 
ing a horse unbroke to ride, and within a half or 
three-quarters of an hour had the horse so com- 
pletely under his control that he could ride him 
about the street with merely a halter. He gave 
another exhibition Tuesday night on the ball 
diamond, where he will also give another next 
Saturday afternoon. He spoke at the Baptist 
church Wednesday evening. He will leave here 
next Monday. — Holdrege, Neb., Progress. 



Evangelist Mullen gave exhibitions of horse 
training again yesterday on Haymarket square. 
In the evening he broke a wild Indian mustang 
from the West Lincoln Stock Yards. The pony 
made lots of fun for the crowd, but it finally 
gave up and the evangelist handled it as if it 
were a kitten. In the afternoon a black mare 
that had achieved some fame as a kicker was 
taken in hand. She was refractory, but the 
evangelist made speedy progress. He rode the 
animal with a halter for a bridle and drove her 
but the harness broke and all the work was 
spoiled by another exhibition of kicking. The 
animal will be taken in hand this afternoon 
and the job finished. At the afternoon gather- 
ing Mr. Mullen spoke at length of his life and 
conversion. He will give only one exhibition 
of horse breaking today, lasting from 3 to 6 
o'clock. — Nebraska State Journal. 



102 PRESS EXTRACTS. 

In his street displays Mr. Mullen does not 
supply himself with a paddock or an extra 
horse, but subdues the "subject" simply with 
his formidable rope rigging. It is not his plan, 
he says, to tire the horse out or to inflict any 
pain upon it, but simply to show the animal 
that man is its master. In the South Omaha 
pen before a crowd of drovers and stockmen, 
most critical of judges, Mr. Mullen subdued the 
wildest mustang in the yards, and even went so 
far as to lift the animal's rear parts from the 
ground by the hocks. Physically, the trainer- 
preacher is a giant and looks perfectly capable 
of overpowering a broncho in a hand-to-hand 
struggle. He weighs 200 pounds and was en- 
gaged in training horses before he entered the 
Moody Institute in Chicago. — Omaha, Neb., 
Daily Bee. 



Prof. Wm. Mullen, of Chicago, gave an inter- 
esting exhibition of colt breaking last Saturday 
afternoon opposite the Reporter office, taking a 
"green" colt and breaking it to harness in ten 
minutes' time, bringing the youngster under 
such perfect control that he could lift both its 
hind feet with his hands at once without a pro- 
test from it and drive it about the yard as he 
pleased. He is evidently an expert in the horse 
training line. — Coldwater, Mich., Reporter. 



ABOUT FILLING A STABLE. 

HOW THE TRAINER WHO CAN HARDLY WORK MORE THAN 
FOUR HORSES NOW USED TO PUT A FEATHER EDGE ON 
FORTY. 

IT'S gettin' so nowadays/' said Jimmy, "that 
a teamster can't work but two hours an' a 
half a day without gettin' sunstruck or 
frost-bitten. It's dead easy for me to re- 
member when every one of them guys used to 
earn what they got. Nowadays they ain't one 
in a million earns the pie an' ice cream he throws 
into his face. They want to ride just two hours 
an' a half an' put in the rest of the day tellin' 
the owner just why no teamster can't train but 
four hosses an' do 'em justice. Ten years ago 
every one of them boys could train forty head 
an' do it easy.'' 

"There must be some truth in that," said 
the Owner. "They tell me that during the time 
that Independence, la., was the trotting horse 
Mecca, some of the trainers located out there 
used to train fully that many." 

"I wonder if they didn't," replied Jimmy. 
"Hussey will tell you himself that him and 
104 



STABLE CONVERSATION. I0 5 

Charley Thompson, an' McHenry, an' Terbush, 
an' a lot more used to train forty head before 
breakfast. Them was the days when any good 
teamster would bet you even money that he 
could train 200 head, an' train 'em to a finish, 
at $2.50 per day. In '91 it was me workin' for 
Saunders over at Cleveland when a bunch blew 
in that was headed for Williamsville, an' I made 
an entry. Every boy in the biz was headed that 
way. It was worse than Cripple Creek or the 
Klondike. 

"I passed up a right good office, but I says 
to Red Kennedy, 'Red,' I says, T can live 
through the summer if I don't see that kite 
track, but they say there's a lot of that Axtell 
money floatin' around that Iowa country that's 
easy to get.' I signed with McHenry soon as 
I unloaded. Mac has five barns full of racers 
an' more comin' on every train. Thompson has 
just as many, an' Williams, an' Hussey, an' the 
rest of the top jocks has about eighty apiece. 

"They all had so many hosses that when a 
sucker writes in an' wants one trained they try 
to stop him by tellin' him the price is three 
bucks a day, owner to furnish water, feed, swipe 
an' boots with the hoss. That didn't stop 'em. 
Every morning McHenry gets up an' asks a 
clerk how many come in durin' the night. He 
keeps tags on' em all, so he can tell one from 



I0 6 STABLE CONVERSATION. 

another, an' when a hoss loses his tag he has to 
join the unknown string. 

"George Eggleson was second jock, an' he 
has ten helpers to work them that couldn't get 
around the track before dinner. Thompson an' 
Terbush had a lot of overflow hosses out in the 
sheds, an' one mornin' Thompson is just gettin' 
up behind a hoss when Terbush commences to 
holler, 'You've got one of mine,' he says. 'You're 
another,' says Thompson; 'this hoss is one I've 
had a week.' 'I've had him a month,' says Ter- 
bush, 'an' if you don't put him back in that stall 
I'll have you pinched,' he says. 'You're out of 
your mind,' says Thompson, 'an' if you'll step 
over here an' look at his tag I'll prove it to you.' 
Then they look at his tag an' found he didn't be- 
long to either one of 'em. 

"Nowadays if them trainers had strings like 
that some of the hosses wouldn't get worked 
once a month, but in them days they got up in 
the mornin' and honed 'em all. All of 'em made 
money an' earned every cent of it. The graft 
was good every day in the year, but the velvet 
harvest was the tin-cup meetin' every fall, when 
the wise teamsters charged twenty-five bucks 
for drivin' a hoss against the clock. McHenry 
hired hisself out to sight so many of 'em that 
they kept 'em waitin' in a string a mile long, an' 
a couple of husky blanket carriers picked him 



ABOUT FILLING A STABLE. 



I07 



up an' throwed him from sulky into another at 
the finish of every heat, just like they used to 
toss Nelly Burk from one saddle to another 
when she was ridin' a fifty-mile race.'' 

"I suppose you had to take care of more 
than one horse in those days," remarked the 
Owner. 

"Not in fly time," replied Jimmy, "but I 
took care of thirty head once in the winter 
time." 

"Thirty head! How could you do it?" 

"Well, Sundays I fed 'em hay, Mondays I 
fed 'em oats, Tuesdays I watered 'em, Wednes- 
days I cleaned out the stalls, Thursdays I fed 
'em bran, Fridays I counted 'em to see if they 
was all there, and Saturdays I rested up for the 
next week. Everybody had to hustle in them 
days, but it's gettin' so lately that nobody is 
strong enough to put in more than half time." 
From Stable Conversation. By Permission 
of The Horse Review Co., Chicago. 



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